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Renault Zoe Charging Problems? Explained

Barnaby Whicher
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Renault Zoe Charging Problems? Explained

In recent years we have seen a growing number of complaints from Renault Zoe owners who have experienced charging problems.

Whilst the Renault Zoe is widely regarded as a reliable car and has been a massive hit in recent years being the small and nimble alternative to the larger electric vehicles that had previously dominated the market. Naturally, when a car becomes as popular as the Renault Zoe has, its faults and quirks show very quickly when it is put to the test in real-world conditions by the masses.

In this article, we will discuss some of the most common reasons a Renault Zoe will reject a charge or stop charging and explain how you can fix your Renault Zoe that won’t charge.

Renault Zoe Charging Problems
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Can you charge a Renault Zoe at home?

Sometimes when we face issues relating to the Renault Zoe not charging it is the charger that is at fault or incompatible, rather than the car itself.

When using public chargers you are unfamiliar with, be sure to try another charger type if possible, before investigating the issue further.

Your home charge point is often the most reliable, predictable, and is generally in the most convenient place to be with the car in the event of it rejecting a charge.

Renault Zoe Charging Problems
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Why will my Renault Zoe not charge?

One of the most common reasons a Renault Zoe will not charge is because the computer systems onboard have triggered a fault code or warning message automatically preventing the car from charging.

These warning messages are usually designed to protect the car in the event of a component failure or possibly to alert you of a faulty or incorrect charging device. However, warning messages like these can sometimes be triggered in error & often can be reset using the reset procedure in the ‘How do I reset my Renault Zoe?’ section of this article.

That said, there are many other reasons why your Renault Zoe will not charge. It could be that there is simply a component failure that is disrupting the flow of power into your car, in which case a reset will not resolve the issue.

Some issues that might not trigger a visible warning message can also result in the obvious symptom being that the car simply won’t charge. If you experience something like this it is likely still worth attempting the reset procedure below before conducting further investigations or contacting a technician.

Why did my car stop charging?

Renault Zoe Charging Problems
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In the majority of cases although not all, the car will stop charging due to one of the above-mentioned warning messages. Usually automatically forcing the car to stop charging.

The most common warning messages are the ‘Ongoing Checks’ & ‘BCI’ (Battery Charge Impossible warning), the ‘BCI’ warning is also often called the ‘RNOD’ (Red Nose of Death) on online forums. These warning messages have a habit of sounding more serious than they are. Rest assured, for the most part, they are easily resolved.

Warning messages like these are often triggered in error for a variety of reasons. These reasons can be as simple as a rushed plugin or a disruption during the charging/latching process. eg, knocking the charger.

Additional Causes

Other reasons the Renault Zoe might encounter charging problems could be that the charge plug latch mechanism can sometimes fail in a way that will disrupt charging (more info on the plug latch/locking mechanism here), A failed or unhealthy 12-Volt battery (the conventional small battery we are familiar with from petrol and diesel cars), Issues with the charge filtering circuitry – the circuit system which prepares and distributes the charge once it has entered the car before it reaches the battery & even a bad electrical ground.

Most more in-depth issues would be easily detected via a fault code scanning tool commonly used by motor technicians, luckily the Renault Zoe uses the OBD2 type which is widely used across various makes and models.

Electric Car Charging
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How do I reset my Renault Zoe?

Sometimes it is possible to reset your Renault Zoe to clear these warning messages.

You can do this by simply giving the computer systems onboard some time to reset, the Renault Zoe equivalent of turning your computer off & on again. It sounds laughably simple but it really can be a very effective way to clear fault codes & warning messages, especially those that have been triggered in error.

How to reset your Renault Zoe in an error situation.

  1. Remove the charger if you have one connected.
  2. Proceed to lock the car, and watch until the internal systems and displays have powered down completely. You can be inside or outside the car. If you decide to be inside, make sure not to interrupt the power down.
  3. After a few minutes, you should be able to hear a click. At this point, the LED in the lock button on top of the R-Link will turn off. 
  4. After another few minutes, you should be able to hear a second click. 
  5. Once you have heard the second click allow a further two minutes.
  6. You can now unlock the car and attempt to charge it again. If you are unsure, the car needs to have been locked for a minimum of 6 minutes in total.

This reset should allow the Renault Zoe to have the best chance possible to charge, now that the computers are reset. Assuming there are no further issues with the car.

If your Renault Zoe still isn’t charging after this reset procedure but also isn’t showing any warning messages. Sometimes a simple unlock of the doors can help the computer systems to spring into life and accept the charge. Think of this as a gentle wake-up nudge.

You should then be able to hear the usual latching sounds if this has been successful.

Renault Dealership
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What to do if my Renault Zoe won’t charge after a reset?

If your Renault Zoe is still having problems charging after a reset, you are likely experiencing a component failure. At this point, it could be best to contact the main dealer or your preferred technician.

FAQs

How long does it take to charge a Renault Zoe?

The charging time for a Renault Zoe will depend on the type of charging station used and the capacity of the car’s battery. Using a standard 220-240V domestic socket, it can take up to 25 hours to fully charge the battery.

However, using a 7kW wall box or public charging station can significantly reduce the charging time to around 7-8 hours. Fast chargers with a power output of 22kW or more can charge the battery to 80% in around an hour.

What should I do if my Renault Zoe is not charging quickly enough?

If your Renault Zoe is not charging quickly enough, there are a few things you can try:

  • Make sure you are using a compatible charging station with sufficient power output.
  • Check that the charging cable is not damaged or faulty.
  • Ensure that the car’s charging settings are configured correctly.

If the above steps do not work, you may need to take your car to a Renault service centre for further diagnosis.

Can extreme temperatures affect the charging of a Renault Zoe?

Yes, extreme temperatures can affect the charging of a Renault Zoe. Cold temperatures can cause the battery to take longer to charge and reduce the overall driving range. Conversely, very hot temperatures can cause the battery to degrade faster over time. It’s recommended to charge the car in moderate temperatures for optimal charging performance and battery life.

What is the best way to maintain the battery of a Renault Zoe?

  1. Charge the car regularly to prevent the battery from fully depleting.
  2. Avoid exposing the car to extreme temperatures.
  3. Use a dedicated wall box charger for faster and more efficient charging.
  4. Use a compatible charging station and ensure the charging cable is not damaged.
  5. Avoid rapid charging too frequently as it can degrade the battery over time.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the Renault Zoe is a fantastic electric vehicle with a lot of great features and benefits. While it offers many advantages over traditional gas-powered cars, it’s important to understand some of the potential charging issues that can arise with electric vehicles.

By following the tips and guidelines outlined in this article, you can help to ensure that your Renault Zoe remains in good condition and performs optimally. Regular charging, careful maintenance, and avoiding extreme temperatures can all help to prolong the battery’s life and maintain maximum driving range.

Despite the potential charging issues, the Renault Zoe is still a highly recommended electric vehicle that offers a great driving experience and many eco-friendly benefits. With its sleek design, advanced features, and affordable price point, the Renault Zoe is a great choice for anyone looking to switch to an electric car.

Have you considered an electric car subscription instead of buying?

No? Not to worry – we have summarised in our article: Electric car subscription Vs. Buying

7 Common Ford 1.5 TDCI Problems: Engine Solutions

David Ashton
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7 Common Ford 1.5 TDCI Problems: Engine Solutions

Even with the most well-maintained vehicles, Ford 1.5 TDCI engine problems can occur. The 1.5 TDCI and other variants can show problems from time to time, no matter their past reliability and track record.

With today’s helpful tips, we will focus on the Ford 1.5 TDCI and the more popular vehicles this engine pertains to, with possible solutions. Some of these problems can be an easy fix, while others will require more specialist knowledge or a visit to your local garage or dealer.

Top 4 Car Diagnostic Tools that Save You Money on Repairs

The tips below will provide you with an excellent starting point for diagnosing your own engine. No matter if your car is brand-new or has a hefty amount of miles on the odometer. We will cover common issues from the TDCI, what to look for, and common part failings.

Common problems with the Ford Focus Mk3

Ford 1.5 Tdci Problems-1
Image credit: Wikipedia

The Mk3 Ford Focus 1.5-litre TDCi diesel will need a cam belt change every 8 years. Brake fluid will need to be changed every 2 years, with major and minor servicing performed throughout the year. A decrease in power around town can indicate a deficient turbo intercooler. A PCM or ECU update to the engine performed by an authorised dealer can also solve a lot of power issues.

The 1.5-litre TDCi has the best fuel economy of the range, at 74.3mpg, with the advantage of no road tax. These efficient models can show engine warning lights which can be the result of faulty sensors or more serious engine faults. An OBD code reader is an efficient way to diagnose a potentially faulty component such as a crank sensor and oxygen sensor. Faulty sensors can be easily fitted but can be expensive to replace on the 1.5 TDCI. OBD code reader’s are nifty pieces of kit that can save you a expensive trip to the garage. We have put together a list of The 4 Best OBD-II Scanners for 2023 to help you decide which one best fits your needs..

Engine problems with the Ford Focus 2015

Ford 1.5 Tdci Problems-2
Image credit: Wikipedia

Many Ford 1.5 TDCi engine problems with the Focus 2015 can be solved with an ECU check and upgrade. Zetec to Titanium S trim levels requires regular top-ups to the engine oil,  battery levels, and systematic checks to the diesel system. The 2015 Ford Focus with the 1.5 Tdci engine may be a relatively new model, but there have been cases of bad purge valves within the exhaust system.

Common issues even with EcoBoost vehicles that have driven a lot of miles may suffer from faults from the turbo system, ECM, injection nozzles, or even water pump failure. Once an issue arises where your car does not drive as smoothly as normal, no matter if it is new or used, a trip to your local garage is advisable for a thorough diagnostics check.

Top 4 Car Diagnostic Tools that Save You Money on Repairs

Vehicles that have a manual gearbox are advised to have the clutch tested periodically, generally at a long-term service point. This also applies to the oil filter, performing regular oil changes, and making sure there aren’t any general running issues.

Consumer Reports

Findings from consumer reports show that one of the most likely faults on the Ford Focus mk2 and Ford 1.5 TDCi engine problems is down to a nonworking purge valve. This is part of the exhaust system, which when left unchecked can lead to a damaged fuel tank in a car. There have also been reported problems with the PowerShift dual-clutch automatic gearbox, which will need an inspection by your local dealer.

The Ford Focus mk2 has the older style Duratorq TDCi engine in either 1.6, 1.8 or 2.0-litre variations, but can still throw out the same reliability issues when driving as the newer 1.5 Tdci. While these cars can be driven more than 200,000 miles from new, there’s nothing like a regular inspection or service to highlight a potential problem.

Check your engine every week for unwanted noise issues, fluids and leakages.

Clutch slave cylinder problems with Ford Focus MK3

Ford 1.5 Tdci Problems-4
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The 1.5 Tdci in the Ford Focus mk3 has had reports of the clutch slave cylinder being problematic on older vehicles. Faulty parts or engine leaks can be quickly rectified on a new car under warranty by your local dealer. While older vehicles will need inspecting by a qualified mechanic.

The Ford Focus mk3 featured the 1 5tdci Durotorg engine after 2016, with economy being the main priority over performance. This engine achieves excellent mpg and is generally a fault-free engine in the main. Weekly checks of the engine compartment for leakages and making sure oil levels are topped up should be a regular routine. Stock up on engine oil now while it is on your mind.

The 1.5 Tdci is generally a very reliable engine, but like all diesel engines will need a regular maintenance plan. Prevention is better than cure, so don’t wait until an engine warning light appears or the car starts to run sluggish. The driver’s manual will recommend regular engine checks and maintenance procedures, with specifics for each engine type.

What is the clutch slave cylinder? 

A clutch slave cylinder is a component in a manual transmission vehicle that is responsible for actuating the clutch. It is a hydraulic cylinder that is connected to the clutch fork and is activated by the clutch pedal.

When the driver presses the clutch pedal, it pushes the clutch master cylinder to send brake fluid through the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder. The fluid pressure from the slave cylinder then pushes the clutch fork, which in turn moves the clutch pressure plate and disengages the engine from the transmission.

If the clutch slave cylinder fails, the driver may experience difficulty in shifting gears, or the clutch pedal may feel spongy or unresponsive. In some cases, the clutch may not disengage completely, making it difficult to shift gears. It is important to have the slave cylinder inspected and replaced if necessary, to avoid further damage to the transmission or other related parts.

Why Has My Ford Focus Lost Power?

Ford 1.5 Tdci Problems-5
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A loss of engine power can be the result of a non-functioning fuel filter, fuel pump, clogged fuel lines, or dirty air filter. Other mechanical problems can be the culprit such as the exhaust manifold, faulty injectors, or low compression.

The Ford Focus coupled with the 1.5 Tdci shouldn’t in theory throw up any problems in the first few years of driving. However, mechanical problems such as the ones listed above can crop up from time to time. Typical examples are malfunctioning sensors, such as the camshaft position sensor and malfunctioning actuators like clogged up injectors.

As soon as the car feels like there is a loss of power, a professional diagnosis is the best way forward.

Why Does My TDCi Say Engine Malfunction?

Engine Problems
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If your car is showing any indication of an engine malfunction, through either the check engine light or other dashboard warnings, then there could be problems with your emissions system. A flashing warning light can also indicate more deep-seated problems, which can lead to other engine parts failing or engine misfires.

Generally, you can only drive your car for a short period with an engine warning light highlighted, but only as long as the car is still driving in a normal fashion. However, any warning light means the car and its diagnostic system has found some underlying fault that needs to be addressed as soon as possible. The underlying problem can’t be thoroughly checked unless the vehicle is taken to a dealer of a verified garage for a diagnostic check.

Top 4 Car Diagnostic Tools that Save You Money on Repairs

If you do have a malfunctioning engine, there may be initial warning signs. The mpg or RPMs of the car may change, and the car may drive erratically which could be a fuel or exhaust system problem.

Some reports say that driving your car for a few days can get rid of an engine malfunction light warning. However, any engine warning lights could be the start of a more serious issue. Therefore, a quick inspection can potentially save time and money down the road.

How Do You Fix A TDCi Engine Malfunction

Ford 1.5 Tdci Problems-7
Image credit: Wikipedia

A Ford Focus engine malfunction can happen on a new Focus vehicle to older models. A fault can be down to a false negative, an ECU fault, small electrical faults, or more serious mechanical problems. Diagnostic tools will be needed to read more serious problems, but simple fixes like a regular oil change can be easily carried out.

Top 4 Car Diagnostic Tools that Save You Money on Repairs

If you don’t have the skills or equipment yourself to fix a problem, then it’s always wise to take your vehicle to a local dealer or garage.

As the engine malfunction warning is a generic message, it can apply to many areas of the engine. Even if the car is running fine, there may be an underlying problem. Without the proper diagnostic tools, it can be hard to pinpoint the exact problem. If you suspect that your Ford Focus engine malfunction message is constantly throwing out a false negative, then it can be reset. Turning the ignition on and off three times with a small pause between each can turn the engine management light off.

Other Common Problems

Additional problems reported with the Ford 1.5 TDCI engine include issues with the diesel particulate filter (DPF), turbocharger failure, and problems with the engine’s timing chain.

  1. DPF issues: The DPF is responsible for removing particulate matter from the engine’s exhaust gases. If the filter becomes clogged, it can cause reduced engine performance and increased emissions.
  2. Turbocharger failure: The turbocharger is responsible for increasing the amount of air that enters the engine, which in turn increases power. If the turbocharger fails, it can cause reduced engine performance and increased emissions.
  3. Timing Chain: The timing chain is responsible for ensuring that the engine’s valves and pistons are properly synchronized. If the timing chain stretches or snaps, it can cause serious engine damage and require a costly repair.

Additionally, some owners have reported issues with the engine running rough, poor fuel economy, and check engine lights.

It is important to note that these are general issues, and it is best to have the vehicle inspected by a qualified mechanic if you suspect any problems with the engine.

Ford Steering Wheel

FAQs

How do I know if my Ford 1.5 TDCI engine is experiencing turbocharger failure?

Signs of turbocharger failure in a Ford 1.5 TDCI engine include loss of power, excessive smoke from the exhaust, and a high-pitched whine or grinding noise from the engine.

What causes injector failure in Ford 1.5 TDCI engines?

Injector failure in Ford 1.5 TDCI engines can be caused by a number of factors, including clogging due to debris or contamination in the fuel system or wear and tear due to normal usage.

How can I prevent coolant loss in my Ford 1.5 TDCI engine?

To prevent coolant loss it’s important to check your coolant levels regularly and to inspect your hoses and radiator for leaks or damage. It’s also recommended to have your coolant system flushed and refilled according to the manufacturer’s recommended service intervals.

What is the recommended timing belt replacement interval for Ford 1.5 TDCI engines?

The recommended timing belt replacement interval for Ford 1.5 TDCI engines is typically between 100,000 and 120,000 miles, or every 8 years, whichever comes first. It’s important to follow the manufacturer’s recommended service intervals to prevent premature wear or failure of the timing belt.

How do I fix an oil leak in my Ford 1.5 TDCI engine?

Fixing an oil leak in your Ford 1.5 TDCI engine will depend on the source and severity of the leak. Common causes of oil leaks include faulty gaskets or seals, damaged oil pans, or worn out engine components. It’s important to have a qualified mechanic diagnose and repair the issue to ensure proper and safe repairs are made.

What should I do if my Ford 1.5 TDCI engine is experiencing power loss?

If you notice a significant loss of power in your Ford 1.5 TDCI engine, it’s important to have it inspected by a qualified mechanic. Power loss can be caused by a number of issues, including turbocharger failure, injector problems, fuel system issues, or engine problems. A proper diagnosis is necessary to identify the root cause of the issue and to determine the appropriate repairs.

Can I continue driving my Ford 1.5 TDCI if it’s experiencing any of these problems?

It’s not recommended to continue driving if experiencing any of these common problems. They can lead to more serious issues or even engine failure. It’s important to have your vehicle inspected by a qualified mechanic and to address any issues as soon as they arise to prevent further damage and costly repairs.

Are there any recalls or service bulletins related to Ford 1.5 TDCI engines?

Ford has issued several recalls and service bulletins related to various issues with 1.5 TDCI engines. It’s important to check with your local Ford dealership or a qualified mechanic to determine if your vehicle is affected by any recalls or service bulletins and to have any necessary repairs or inspections performed.

Ford Focus

Conclusion

The Ford 1.5 Tdci has been reliably used in a variety of cars, chosen for its great economy and mpg. While the engine has had a good track record with reliability, just like any diesel engine, parts can fail from time to time and warning lights can appear on the dashboard.

The next time your Ford 1.5 Tdci starts to run less efficiently than normal or a dreaded warning light appears on the dash, the tips above will give you a starting point for your own investigations. More than likely this will result in an immediate trip to the garage and will incur a cost, but this should be a rarer occurrence than experienced with the petrol counterparts.

If you are currently having issues with your vehicle, an On-board Diagnostic (OBD) scanner will help you diagnose the issue for as little as £25. We have put together a list of The 4 Best OBD-II Scanners for 2023 to help you decide which one best fits your needs.

Please share this article and comment below with your own experiences with the Ford 1.5 Tdci engine problems. Your feedback could help others in the future with their own particular 1.5 Tdci engine problems.

What Is Causing My BMW E92 Clunk Sound: Explained

David Ashton
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What Is Causing My BMW E92 Clunk Sound: Explained

BMWs and especially the 3 series have proven their worth for many decades. On the whole, the BMW E92 is very reliable but there have been instances of owners experiencing a clunk sound.

In today’s article, we will go through the most likely reasons for experiencing a clunking sound or any other noise. And just like any good doctor, we will diagnose the problem and give possible solutions.

Where this clunking noise emanates from will be the first port of call. From there we will provide likely causes from user feedback. Plus, possible quick fixes and repair suggestions.

What Is a BMW E92?

bmw e92 clunk sound

The BMW E92 is essentially the coupe version of the 2006, 3 series model. The E92 and E93 models were produced up to 2013, with additional design cues.

The main differences between the E92 and other sedan models are redesigned tail lights and headlights, and two rear passenger seats rather than three. The coupe models also have longer doors. This model was eventually taken over by the 2014 F32 and F33.

The E92 was also one of the last 3 series models to feature a naturally aspirated engine. The E92 also had access to the majority of BMW engines and gearboxes.

Why Is My BMW E92 Making a Clunking Sound?

If you experience a clunking sound from your BMW E92, the problem may stem from the steering, brakes, prop shaft, suspension, or engine. Each area will need to be thoroughly checked for symptoms and solutions.

Any type of weird noise coming from your car is a cause for concern. Where the clunking sound emanates from is a good indication of the problematic area. For instance, if the clunking sound only happens when you apply the brakes, the whole brake system will need checking.

On the other hand, if the clunking sound is coming from the middle or rear of the car, then the prop shaft will need checking.

The M3 version of the BMW E92 has experienced clunking sounds over the years as a common problem. The points we will discuss are below.

BMW E92 Clunk Sound
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BMW E92 M3 Clunking Sounds

The BMW E92 clunking sound is a commonly reported problem. The main cause is the prop shaft, which will need heavy greasing. However, the clunking sound can also be caused by the suspension or braking system.

As the problem has been reported quite readily with the BMW E92 M3, it’s worth documenting this model on its own. We have gone into detail below about prop shaft diagnosis and solutions. While in this section we will add other specific solutions found by BMW E92 M3 owners.

BMW E92 M3 Drivetrain Noises

Noise coming from the BMW E92 M3 drivetrain can be inherent as with any sports car. A large load change may produce an audible sound, especially when ‘Sport Mode’ is selected.

‘Acoustic feedback’ is a common trait of the M3. When a sudden load change is experienced, a small clunk is seen as ‘normal to the model. However, there is a difference between the inherent small clunk and constant loud noise. On older vehicles, the bushings may need replacing down to a prop shaft repair as documented below.

If you can rule out inherent load transfer noises, then checking for any broken bolts and differential fittings is a common step. A change of differential fluid can also remedy the problem in some cases.

Generally, a car will need a trip to the dealer or a qualified mechanic with drivetrain problems. However, a quick check of all bushes and mounts around the differential, prop shaft, and gearbox is wise. For a thorough check, the car will need to be elevated.

BMW E92 M3 Clunking Sounds Over Speed Bumps

bmw e92 clunk sound
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If you’re BMW E92 M3 experiences unusual clunking over speed bumps then first check the front sway bar endlink. The nuts may have worked loose and need tightening. The strut guide lower washer can also be wrongly fitted.

Other experienced noise problems have come from the rear shock mount not being properly seated. This will require either a refitting or a replacement part. Clunking sounds from the suspension have also been reported after a suspension upgrade. Therefore, if you are in this camp make sure that the correct M3 parts have been fitted to the manufacturer’s specifications.

The strut mounts will also need checking. If there is any type of knocking or clunking from this area, then the strut mounts may be too tight or loose. The strut tower brace will need disconnecting to tighten any loose areas.

One report has shown the metal top cover of the shock absorber can rust and degrade over time. If these have deteriorated on your vehicle, then there are replacement kits available.

BMW E92 M3 Noise When Steering

Noise coming from the BMW E92 M3 steering can be due to a loose steering rack. If the steering feels like it has play, the attachment bolts will need either tightening or replacing.

Any dashboard warning lights or loss of power can point to the main area of problems.

If the car enters limp mode, then there could be an inherent engine problem. The E92 M3 has been known to have throttle body actuator problems and failure with the rod bearings. However, these points generally result in a lack of power rather than a continual clunking sound.

Why Is the E92 Diff. Often Noisy?

A common problem with BMW M3 E92 differential noise is worn pinion bearings. A tell-tale sign of this fault is a change in pitch when accelerating or decelerating.

E92 Engine Clunking Sounds

bmw e92 clunk sound
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A multitude of areas needs checking when a BMW E92 M3 experiences engine clunking sounds. One report pointed to a clutch and flywheel replacement. Even if you don’t have any dashboard warning lights showing engine problems, unusual noises need instant investigation.

Check all fluid levels including transmission fluid. If any gaskets look worn or degraded, these will also need replacing. Fluid leaks and worn gaskets can be small but fatal flaws. Any signs of drips or leaks where you park the car are a good giveaway.

A standard first test is to allow the car to get up to temperature before driving. After a fresh oil change, check the oil after a few thousand miles. If the oil level has dropped dramatically and/or is very dirty, then you may have oil leaks.

As with any sports car, the BMW E92 M3 should have maintenance intervals more frequently than base models. Performing a general inspection and keeping all fluid levels topped up and frequently replaced should be standard.

Common BMW E92 M3 Engine Faults

If you experience any type of BMW E92 M3 noise or engine fault, then common and associated problems are first in line. The BMW E92 M3 has documented rod bearing wear, connecting rod clearance, and known throttle body actuator failure. There have also been instances of the electric fuel pump failing, differential grinding noises and the power steering assist fading due to wear.

The above problems can be highlighted by a loss of power, unusual noises, or engine failure. With these types of problems, an expert will be needed for a proper diagnosis.

Some people have also reported a ticking sound coming from the engine. If the car is driving normally without loss of power, then this may be a small problem such as with the air conditioning. However, this could also be a valvetrain or lifter tick, which will need further investigation.

Lifter ticks are common problems with mid-2000 BMWs. Although BMW says that this is partly inherent in the design, it can also mean that the lifters need adjusting. With this problem, a lifter bleed procedure is usually performed. If your car is still under warranty then BMW may even replace the complete cylinder head for a more new design.

BMW E92 M3 Differential Noises

bmw e92 clunk sound
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Differential noises from the BMW E92 M3 are commonly documented. A typical solution is to use an FM booster with differential oil. An oil change may also be needed a few times to alleviate the problem. Counterintuitively, this affects cars that are more lightly driven.

The differential will also need checking to see if it is knocking against other elements. Also, check all bolts are secure. Tighten any loose bolts and check for degraded washers.

The bearings may also have worn in the differential. This can lead to excessive noise, which will need the differential taken out of the car.

BMW E92 M3 Propshaft

bmw e92 clunk sound

If your experience a BMW e92 clunk sound from the centre of the car, then the prop shaft(UK) or driveshaft will need inspecting. For most users, this will mean a visit to your local dealer or mechanic.

From user feedback, the most likely areas to check are the support bearing and housing, differential and fluid levels, and any loose bolts.

As a clunking sound is more intermittent than a constant screech, then it’s worth first checking all attachments. As a matter of course check all exhaust attachments, the centre U-joint and any other areas of wear. The idea here is to eliminate all areas that may have become worn over time. If you have struck lucky in this area, then you new may just need to replace things like worn mountings.

The list below includes common checks you could apply to the underside of the vehicle.

  • Check for any defective differential bolts.
  • Inspect differential bushings and replace if needed.
  • Check all mounting brackets from the front of the exhaust to the back.

Check the prop shaft/driveshaft, along with the centre housing and support bearings. If the prop shaft has worn, then a prescribed remedy is to completely grease all related components. However, if the noise persists or increases the greasing solution is only a quick fix. Some users have reported that they had to replace the whole prop shaft in this instance.

Check the differential for loose or worn bolts, fluid levels and general condition. Also, check all couplers and U joints for excessive wear. Some users have reported excessive wear in the U joints, with a replacement solving the clunking problem.

Other Propshaft Related Symptoms

It has been reported that centre support bearings fail more often than U joints. Therefore, check all the rear prop shaft components for excessive wear.

There have also been instances of the vibration dampener becoming loose within the mounting cup. In other words, a component-by-component check will be needed to zero in on the exact problem.

BMW E92 Clunking Sound When Driving

bmw e92 clunk sound
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When you experience a BMW e92 clunk sound from your BMW E92 when driving, the prop shaft will need inspecting. Preliminary checks include the doughnut coupling, drive shaft bearing mounts, differential bearings, and internals. The driveshaft will also need checking for general wear.

A rear-wheel drive BMW will always have a tiny amount of free play in the prop shaft. If all components were too tightly fitted, then they would wear far faster. However, if the drive snatches when setting off, there may be too much play in the components.

If you can jack up the car, check the prop shaft by giving it a quick twist to check for excessive play. You can also check the amount of play in the wheels before it engages with the prop shaft.

BMW E92 Clunking Around Corners

A BMW E92 clunking noise experience when going around corners could indicate a fault with the brakes or suspension. Quick initial checks include worn brake pads, warped or damaged brake discs, excessive play, or wrongly mounted suspension points.

As the suspension and braking system are independent areas, we will check out each area individually.

Clunking Sounds From the BMW E92 Suspension

If you experience any clunking or loud sounds from the suspension, first check all mounting points for excessive wear. Each area of the suspension will need checking, like the top bearings. There is also a possibility that the front suspension has not been seated correctly which can cause a knocking sound.

In some instances, worn washers and top mounts can display excessive wear or be the cause of the BMW e92 clunk sound. Therefore, check all connection points before thinking about replacing large parts of the suspension unit.

A worn ARB or drop link arm can cause unnecessary noise. If these areas are worn they can cause a knocking sound. Trailing arm bushes, along with the upper and lower control arm bushes will need to be checked for long-term wear.

If the noise you experience is more like an intermittent clunk, then there is the possibility of misaligned wheels or heavy compression. A possible cause could be the tyre hitting the wheel arch. In this instance, a wheel alignment and check of the camber is in order.

There have been cases reported of motor mounts going bad in some instances. Therefore, even if it seems unlikely, check all mounts within the engine bay.

Clunking Sounds Over Bumps

If you experience a clunking sound when driving over bumps, a joint may be worn. This can result in increased clearance and excessive wearing of other suspension parts. Check any loose nuts or worn bushings. You can also check the BMW Technical Service Bulletins for any common faults.

BMW E92
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BMW E92 Clunking When Braking

The initial things to check when you hear a clunking sound when braking are overly worn brake pads and discs. If these areas are in good order, then the E9X thrust arms are well worth checking. Brake lines, brake fluid, and the condition of the braking system are checked as a matter of course.

At this stage, it’s also worth asking if the BMW e92 clunk sound is a steady vibration, a shudder, or an actual clunking sound. Does the vehicle brake effectively? If you’ve recently changed your brake pads, then there have been cases of some brands causing unnecessary shudders or clunks.

Other checks needed when you suspect your braking system include the tie rod ends and thrust arm bushes. You may also have a stuck calliper, loose brake pads, or even a fault with a single piston.

FAQs

What engine does the BMW M3 E92 have?

The BMW M3 E92 has a 4.0 litre V8 engine that produces 414 horsepower and 295 lb-ft of torque.

What is the top speed of the BMW M3 E92?

The top speed of the BMW M3 E92 is limited to 155 mph.

Does the E92 have a manual transmission?

Yes, the BMW M3 E92 is available with a six-speed manual transmission as well as a seven-speed dual-clutch automatic transmission.

Does the BMW M3 E92 have all-wheel drive?

No, the BMW M3 E92 is rear-wheel drive.

What is the fuel economy of the BMW M3 E92?

The fuel economy is 14 mpg around town, 20 mpg motorways, and 16 mpg combined.

What are the dimensions of the BMW M3 E92?

It has a length of 186.2 inches, a width of 71.3 inches, and a height of 55.1 inches.

What is the weight of the BMW M3 E92? 

The weight of the BMW M3 E92 is around 3750 lbs.

What is the curb weight of the BMW M3 E92?

The curb weight of the BMW M3 E92 is around 3750 lbs.

BMW E92 Interior

Summary of the BMW E92 Clunk Sound

Like any performance vehicle, the BMW E92 and M3 have experienced some inherent problems over the years. A BMW e92 clunk sound from the prop shaft, when driven with force, has been commonly reported. As documented above, there are workarounds to this problem, such as a thorough greasing of all components.

However, a general clunking sound can be produced from many areas of the car. Any unusual sounds should be located once the car has warmed up. Any noises coming from the rear of the vehicle may point to a prop shaft or differential fault. On the other hand, noises coming from the front of the car may point to an engine, suspension, or brake problem.

The BMW E92 and the M3 equivalent are still extremely fun cars to drive. The word on the street may say that the steering may not be as exciting as other models. But well-maintained vehicles can still be very reliable with plenty more years of driving fun.

If you found this article useful, please comment below with your own BMW experiences. Also, please share this article on social media, so that it can help others. It would also be interesting to hear your own feedback on other problems found with the BMW E92.

Audi Pre Sense Warning Light & Common Faults

Andy Marchant
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0
Audi Pre Sense Warning Light & Common Faults

In this article, we will explain what the Audi Pre Sense warning light means and go over some of the technology’s common faults. We will also explain some tips on how to fix the Pre-Sense warning light problem for yourself before resorting to a dealership or specialist.

What is Audi Pre-Sense?

Audi’s Pre-Sense is fast becoming one of the brand’s biggest selling points. Much like BMW’s popular Collision Warning System, it keeps you and your passengers safe through a combination of radar, sensors and some very clever software. Pre-Sense technology makes Audi vehicles some of the safest on the road, actively intervening to prevent crashes.

Pre-Sense is not perfect and still a relatively new technology. It can trigger unexpectedly and some drivers experience intermittent warning lights related to the system. If you have experienced this you’ll know how alarming it can be.

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The technology relies on cameras and radar sensors on the front, rear, and sides of the vehicle to detect the predicted trajectory of other road users and even pedestrians. If the onboard computer calculates a high likelihood of a collision, it will engage the safety mechanisms available. This includes the Electronic Stability Control (ESC) system to prevent skidding, brake application, and driver alerts. Most Audi vehicles now come with a pre-sense as a standard.

Why was it Introduced?

Pre-sense was first introduced as a feature of Audi vehicles in 2011. This technology suite is designed to react faster than human beings to potential upcoming hazards on the road. Upon detection of a dangerous situation, pre-sense automatically engages safety systems to protect those in and out of the car and avert collisions.

Audi Pre Sense Warning Light
Image Credit: Unsplash

Pre Sense Options

  • Pre-sense standard/basic: shuts windows and pre-tensions driver and passenger seatbelts if potential hazard detected.
  • Pre-sense plus: visual and audible warnings of collision as well as priming of brakes.
  • Pre-sense city: also activates emergency braking when driving less than 52 mph.
  • Pre-sense side: includes radar sensors on the side of the vehicle to detect further potential collisions adjusting the suspension to absorb some of the impact.
  • Pre-sense rear: monitors collisions from behind the vehicle, preparing onboard systems for impact.
  • Pre-sense 360: detects potential collisions on all four sides of the vehicle. Audi Pre-Sense warning lights and messages

There are two common warning lights for Audi pre-sense to look out for. Though these will differ slightly from model to model, all Audi’s will show the following lights when engaging pre-sense or if there is a problem.

Pre-sense warning light

This warning light warns you that the Audi pre-sense system is unable to work properly. The symbol features a yellow circle broken into segments, intersected with a triangle exclamation point “warning” sign. There is a car symbol in the centre of the circle.

While this yellow warning light means there is something amiss with the pre-sense system, most often the problem is easily rectified and should not require the help of a dealership or garage specialising in Audi vehicles.

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As a warning symbol, the car can still be safely driven, but the effectiveness of the pre-sense system will be impaired.

Audi Pre Sense
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Pre-sense fault light

If your car’s computer detects a more major fault with the pre-sense system then it will display the red fault light on the dashboard array.

This light features the front of a car outlined with a red circle intersected with a star symbol. This is all encompassed in parentheses shapes.

Identifying the problem for a red pre-sense fault light is a bit more difficult and often involves specialist knowledge and diagnosing tools found only at dealerships and certain garages

How to fix Audi Pre-Sense problems

For all of the above warning lights and error messages, it’s worth considering the following fixes, starting with the easiest and least intrusive. These findings are based on the experience of Audi users and garages, as well as official information released by Audi themselves.

Give your car a wash

While the pre-sense system uses advanced technology, it still relies on being able to detect the road, cars, and pedestrians that use it. The vehicles do this through cameras and sensors that are embedded within the body of the car and also near the rear-view mirror.

If the car body and windscreen are allowed to become dirty, the capability of these sensors and cameras becomes inhibited. For example, if the side of your car develops a thick film of motorway grime after a long drive, the sensors on the side of your Audi may become ineffective. The onboard computer will be unaware that the issue is simply a dirty car and throw a warning light up on the dashboard.

Should you see a warning light, or experience an error message on the car’s display then, one of the easiest ways to resolve the problem is to simply wash your car, ensuring the windscreen, in particular, is clean. Many Audi owners have found this simple fix resolves the issue, with warning lights clearing off the dashboard array immediately.

Audi Estate Pre Sense
Image Credit: Unsplash

Check paint protection films

If you recently had some bodywork done and now have pre-sense warning lights you may wish to discuss this with the third party involved.
While unconfirmed by Audi itself, some Audi owners have discovered that the application of paint protection films, such as Xpel can have an adverse effect on the pre-sense system.
It is currently not understood if the installation of these protective coatings obstruct or inhibit radar sensor but there are cases of owners finding the pre-sense warning lights occurring after application.

Whether the film itself is interfering with the pre-sense system or if, in the application, components have become misaligned or damaged, there appears to be a correlation that should be considered.

Change your Pre-Sense setting

Some owners have found that simply changing the pre-sense settings is enough to keep the warning lights from appearing, even after returning to the original settings.
Simply go to your console and choose Menu > Car > Driver Assist > Audi Pre Sense, here you will be able to adjust the sensitivity of the pre-sense system from early to medium or late. You can also disable the system entirely, though this will reset back to “on” come the next time the vehicle is started.

It is understood that changing these settings effectively recalibrates the pre-sense system with some owners finding that warning lights cease to appear. While this will not work in every case, it is a simple fix that is worth a try before exhausting more expensive options.
Reset the seat belt tensioner control module

For those who are comfortable diagnosing and resetting error codes themselves using VCDS, Ross-Tech cables or OBD-II scanners, you may want to try the following fix.
One of the safety systems Audi pre-sense employs is the pre-tensioning of seat belts before an expected collision. Sometimes, warning lights appear because the seat belt tensioner becomes uncalibrated and the control module needs to be reset.

If you are a mechanic or a DIY car enthusiast, you can perform a seat belt tensioner control module reset using diagnostic equipment to see if this removes your red or yellow pre-sense warning light. We have put together a list of The 4 Best OBD-II Scanners for 2023 to help you decide which one best fits your needs. If you are looking for a specific VW / Audi Group tool, our recommended scanner can be found here. If this is not something you are comfortable doing yourself, it should be left to a trained professional.

Take the car to a dealership

While these fixes may help with some minor issues that interfere with the pre-sense system, some issues require highly specialised equipment and the experience of professionals. Some owners have discovered that their pre-sense warning light was caused by faulty components at the heart of the computer array.

In cases such as this, the problem is not resolvable without taking the car to a dealership or garage that specialises in fixing Audi electronic faults.

Audi Service Centre
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Pre-sense Error Messages

In Audi vehicles with built-in displays, your car may also display a warning message when a problem is detected with the pre-sense system. This varies slightly between models and years, depending on the problem detected.

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Below is a list of common pre-sense warning messages, with an explanation and recommended fix.

“Audi pre sense: currently limited/restricted. See owner’s manual”

This error usually indicates an issue with the ESC system. It could be that the ESC system has been switched off, or, in the case of more serious issues, is experiencing a failure that needs rectifying.

“Audi pre sense: currently restricted. Restricted sensor vision.”

If you experience this error, your sensors or onboard cameras are being obstructed. You may find clearing your dashboard and cleaning your windscreen and bodywork helps. If you’ve recently replaced your windscreen, the forward-facing pre-sense camera may need recalibrating.

Audi pre sense: currently restricted. Towing mode.”

If your Audi detects you are towing a trailer or caravan it will automatically disable pre-sense interventions such as pre-braking. If this error is showing on your in-car display and you are not towing, you should try the fixes above and then seek the help of an Audi specialist.

“Audi pre sense: emergency braking system off.”

This error shows when the pre-sense system has been disabled using the onboard display. It may also show if the system has yet to fully startup. If after a short while the error still displays and you have ensured pre-sense is not switched off, a full diagnostic may be needed.

Unexpected Audi Pre Sense Triggering

Pre-sense usually triggers from speeds upwards of 6.2 mph and below 52.8 mph (for most vehicles) under the following conditions:

  • Sudden braking
  • A forward collision is expected
  • Side collision expected
  • Rear collision expected
  • Pedestrian/cyclist hazard detected
Audi Pre Sense braking
Image Credit: Unsplash

While pre-sense has been hailed as a proactive and life-saving feature, it does sometimes activate incorrectly. This is disconcerting for drivers and is potentially dangerous for other vehicles on the road, especially if driving at speed and pre-sense activates the brakes.
These false positives are largely down to miscalculations or judgements of the onboard computer.

If the system falsely identifies a tree, for example, as a reversing car, it may briefly engage the pre-sense system. You may also find pre-sense activates in less conventional driving situations such as manoeuvring around a blockage or in a tight passing spot. The system is currently unable to fully detect these situations as non-applicable for pre-sense.

Other than changing the sensitivity of your pre-sense system from early, to medium or late, Audi owners have come to live with infrequent false positives. These misjudgements are expected to become rarer as time goes on with Audi fine-tuning the algorithms and software for the detection of hazards.

Is it safe to turn off Audi Pre-Sense?

While individual features of pre-sense can be turned off, with settings stored on the ignition key for personalisation, the system as a whole cannot be truly disabled.

Coming as standard, Audi intends for pre-sense to become an integral contributor to road safety and, as such, intends for it to be used across their range of vehicles.

Nevertheless, the systems involved can be safely turned off for individual journeys through the built-in display. The only effect this will have is to remove the pre-sense features from engaging, as is the case with many other cars on the road. It is, therefore, safe to disable the pre-sense feature.

Conclusion

We hope you have found this article on the Audi Pre Sense warning light & system useful. If you have experienced your own issues with the Audi Pre Sense warning light or have suffered different problems from the ones listed above, please let us know in the comments.

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Audi driving
Image Credit: Pexels

FAQs

Audi pre sense is a suite of advanced driver assistance systems (ADAS) that are designed to help drivers avoid accidents and stay safe on the road. Some common questions about Audi pre sense include:

What is the purpose of Audi pre sense?

The purpose of Audi pre-sense warning light is to help drivers avoid accidents by providing advanced warnings and assistance in emergency situations.

What features are included in Audi pre sense?

Audi pre sense includes a variety of features, such as forward collision warning, automatic emergency braking, lane departure warning, and adaptive cruise control.

How does Audi pre sense work?

Audi pre sense uses sensors, such as cameras and radar, to detect potential hazards on the road. When a potential hazard is detected, the system will provide visual and auditory warnings to the driver, and may even take action, such as applying the brakes, to help avoid an accident.

Is Audi pre sense standard on all Audi models?

No, Audi pre sense is not standard on all Audi models. It is typically offered as an option or included in certain trim levels.

Can Audi pre sense be turned off?

Yes, you can turn off certain features of Audi pre sense, such as the forward collision warning or lane departure warning, through the vehicle’s settings menu. However, it is not recommended to turn off the safety feature permanently as it may compromise your safety.

How Long Does A Car Battery Last? Ultimate Guide

Andy Marchant
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How Long Does A Car Battery Last? Ultimate Guide

How long does a car battery last? In this ultimate guide, we have everything you need to know about car batteries. From the most common battery problems to extending the lifespan of your battery.

We look into the most effective way to recharge your dead battery and start your vehicle if your battery is flat. We address the longevity of lead-acid batteries and how your old unit is recycled. Plus, frequently asked questions such as how long will a car battery last without driving? What are the most common car battery problems? And, when is the best time to replace your battery.

What is the average lifespan of a car battery?

A car battery will last anywhere between 3 and 5 years before a replacement is required. This of course depends on the size and type of the unit plus the make/model of your car. Colder climates, usage and battery problems can greatly impact how long a car battery lasts. Vehicle electrical problems and additional drains such as leisure use can put extra strain on your unit too.

engine bay
Image Credit: Pexels

The most common car battery problems

Drain

This is where a fault on your vehicle causes an excess drain on your battery. A faulty sensor, alternator, loose cables and corroded battery terminals are just a few reasons your battery could be draining. If you suspect this to be the case a trip to a garage or auto electrician is needed to prevent a total battery drain.

Leak

Car batteries are designed not to leak because of the corrosive liquid they contain. However, in some instances, they can leak most commonly through the cell caps on the top. Common causes include overcharging and physical damage.

Cold Weather

The nemesis of batteries. Cold weather causes the electrolyte solution to be less effective making the battery inefficient. The additional strain of using cold-weather extras such as wipers and heating pits additional strain on your battery.

Faults

Common faults can include broken internal connections and plates caused by corrosion and vibration. Short-circuited cells are caused by a failure of the separator and/or a build-up of shed plate material. Faults with the distributor (model dependent) caused by age or corrosion.

Smell

If you are unlucky enough to have a leak, the acids can cause sulphur to build up giving off a stench of rotten eggs.

Short distance driving

If you make frequent short trips in your car, it may not be enough to charge the battery sufficiently. Going for the odd long run is great for recharging your battery and is essential for clearing your vehicle’s DPF if you drive diesel.

How can I extend the life of my car battery?

Storing your car in a garage out of the cold when not in use is a great way of extending battery life. Likewise disconnecting the battery completely if the vehicle will be laid up for a while is good practice. Driving the vehicle regularly on long journeys will keep your unit topped up with charge and in great shape.

Common symptoms of a dying car battery

Being slow to start, battery light, not starting at all, other warning lights such as the seatbelt or airbag lights have been known to flag up. That dreaded clicking noise when you turn the key. Waring lights may start appearing randomly on some models.

diagnostics
Image Credit: Pexels

When does my car battery need replacing?

A battery change may be part of your vehicle’s service schedule and your mechanic may recommend a change during a routine visit. Likewise, if you experience any of the symptoms listed above it may be worth looking at a replacement. There will always be numerous high-quality brands that manufacture batteries for your car, it pays to shop around online for a deal.

How long will a car battery last without driving?

A car battery will last around 2 weeks if it isn’t being driven. A battery will get fully discharged if left for 2 – 3 months, after this period it may not be possible to restart your car, even with a jump or attempt to recharge.  Starting the vehicle regularly or going for a short drive will recharge your battery. The rotation of your engine will drive an alternator that produces an electric current.

If you are away for a long time or storing your car over winter, it is good practice to completely disconnect the battery to reduce the possibility of a full discharge. Removing the battery completely and storing it somewhere warm and dry will help too. Some manufacturers say their batteries will last up to 8 months like this. Additionally, plug-in devices known as battery conditioners are available which will keep your battery alive for extended periods.

Jump Cables

How long do EV batteries last?

How about electric vehicles? It is estimated most current generation EV batteries will last between 7 – 10 years or 100,000 to 150,000 miles. These estimations will be backed up by your manufacturer’s warranty. Range anxiety is one of the biggest factors plaguing EV car owners. After this period, the range of your vehicle may have decreased significantly and a replacement could be required.

How to jump-start your car from another car

Jump starting involves connecting the battery from one car to another to transfer the charge. Once sufficient charge has built up the vehicle should be able to start and use its alternator to recharge the drained battery.

  1. First of all, you will need a pair of jump leads. These can usually be purchased at most petrol stations if you do not carry a set with you.
  2. Manoeuvre the vehicle charged battery so that the leads will reach comfortably (do not let the two vehicles touch)
  3. Ensure both vehicles are switched off
  4. Locate the flat battery. Attach the red positive lead to the positive terminal and the other end to the positive terminal on the charged battery.
  5. Attach the black negative lead to the negative terminal on the charged battery.
  6. Attach the other end of the black negative lead to the earth connection in your engine bay, or a suitable exposed part of the engine itself. (you may see a small spark)
  7. Try and start the flat vehicle
  8. If it doesn’t fire up right away, leave everything connected for 10 minutes and try again.
  9. Turn off the ignition on the original charged vehicle.
  10. Remove black negative leads from the charged vehicle followed by the rest of the leads.
  11. Take the vehicle for a drive/leave idling to charge the battery.

Battery Jumpstart

How to recharge your car battery

To recharge your battery you will need a trickle charger and a mains electricity source. This is the most effective method to fully charge your battery & is easy to do from home. You charge a car battery whilst it is still in the car, or before fitting if preferred.

  1. Check both of the contacts are clear of debris and free from rust.
  2. Ensure the charger is switched off at the mains
  3. Connect the red lead to the positive terminal
  4. Connect the black lead to a dedicated negative terminal
  5. Turn on the charger at the mains
  6. Switch the charger on and allow time to charge. (preferably on a low setting overnight) Most devices will indicate when the battery is full.

 

Battery Charging

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How To Use A Jump Pack

  1. A jump pack is a type of portable battery commonly used in the motor trade. It can be kept at home or brought to someone that needs their battery jump starting.
  2. First, read the manual, different units have varying settings.
  3. remove any metal jewellery and make sure the vehicle isn’t near flammable substances.
  4. Using the vehicle handbook, identify the positive and negative terminals on the car. (they are not always directly on the battery)
  5. Ensure the jump pack is completely off before connecting.
  6. Connect the red lead to the positive terminal
  7. Connect the black lead to a dedicated negative terminal away from the battery, or to an unpainted part of the vehicle’s chassis, frame or engine block.
  8. Switch the jump pack on (some have a specific jump setting)
  9. Turn the vehicle on. Do not attempt to start for more than 5 seconds
  10. If the car won’t start, wait 2-3 minutes and try again
  11. If the car won’t start after 4 attempts, a new battery is required
  12. Remove the black negative lead first followed by red positive.
  13. Let your engine idle for a few minutes before driving away. This will give the alternator a chance to top up charge in the battery.

Car battery Jump Pack

How to bump start your car

  1. If no other options are available to you it is possible to bump start a car with a flat battery using wheel rotation to turn the engine over. The car must have a manual gearbox for this method to work.
  2.  Turn off the ignition and reduce any additional electrical battery drainage. (Air conditioning, head lights, interior lights, radio etc.)
  3. Prepare your run. The most ideal situation would be to roll the vehicle down an incline, however you cant always be that lucky. If the vehicle is on a flat surface you will need a couple of people to push the vehicle while you steer the vehicle and perform the start from the drivers seat.
  4. Switch your ignition to position 2. This will activate necessary components such as unlocking your steering.
  5. Put the car in to neutral and remove the handbrake. Ask your friends to PUSH from the rear of the vehicle. You will need to get the car up to a jogging speed to be most successful.
  6. Dip the clutch, select first gear & bring the clutch up to engage the engine.
  7. This should start the car and begin to charge the battery. Remember if the vehicle doesn’t start, your brakes and steering will be stiff. Be prepared to steer or press the brakes hard if needed.
  8. Let the vehicle idle or take it for a drive to recharge the battery. (30+ minutes should be optimum)

BUMP STARTING CAR
Image Credit: Pexels

What happens to my old car battery?

Standard car batteries

The great news is up to 90% of your old car battery can be recycled. Batteries from internal combustion cars contain strong acids that are dangerous to the environment. They should always be disposed of properly at a local recycling centre or reputable garage. Once collected they will be sent to a facility for decommissioning. The acid will be drained safely and can be turned into a useful material called gypsum. Valuable metals such as lead and copper are extracted for reuse. As for the thick plastic housing, this will be crushed by specialist machinery and turned into pellets where it can be reformed and used again.

Electric car batteries

Unlike traditional car batteries, EV counterparts pose a difficult problem. It is estimated that fewer than 5% of EV batteries are recycled at the moment. Manufacturers like Nissan are taking the initiative to use end of life Leaf batteries in their factories for assembly robots.

Volkswagen is leading the way with a dedicated recycling plant. Metals from the cathode like nickel, lithium and cobalt are extracted and sent away for reuse. These extraction methods have proved time-consuming and expensive so it is important to find a more autonomous solution for the future.

Battery recycling

Do car batteries come with a warranty?

Yes. All new batteries from a reputable company will come with a manufacturer’s warranty. A typical warranty will last 2 years or 24,000 miles though this can vary widely. If your car is new, it should be covered under the manufacturer’s warranty, mileage and age restrictions will apply. To claim your replacement battery you will need to contact the manufacturer of the unit or dealership where you purchased your new vehicle.

Conclusion

Whether your battery needs replacing or recharging it is always worth knowing how to best take care of this important component. Car batteries come in all shapes and sizes with different kinds of issues. Having the skills to identify problems early can avoid getting stuck out on the road.

We hope this ultimate guide on how long batteries last was helpful and informative. If you have suffered your own battery problems feel free to leave a comment below.

Nissan Leaf Problems: Common Issues With The Electric Compact

Justin Bainbridge
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Nissan Leaf Problems: Common Issues With The Electric Compact

The Nissan Leaf was one of the first mass-produced electric cars to hit the markets, released in December 2010. However, being early to the party can come with its problems. And the Nissan Leaf has had its fair share of problems throughout its lifetime. We are going to take a look at the issues the car faced in its early days, which are mostly now solved and the issues that are seen in the current model of the Nissan Leaf. So without further ado, let’s dig into the problems with the Nissan Leaf.

Is the Nissan Leaf a reliable car?

All this talk about problems might call into question whether the Nissan Leaf is a reliable car. To answer that simply, Yes. The Leaf was named the most reliable electric car in the UK in 2020. So you can buy with confidence that it is a perfectly reliable and dependable car, but no car is perfect and problems do arise with anything that is made in such huge volumes.

 

If you are currently having problems with your Nissan Leaf and are in need of a mechanic, we recommend booking through Fixter.

They will provide an instant quote online. Their certified mechanics will carefully select a vetted garage that can handle the job, they will have your car picked up, and then returned when it is fixed (often on the same day).

They are owned by the Renault Group so they carry some serious credibility. If you have a problem that currently needs attention, get a quote now.

Without further ado, let’s dive into the most common issues that have come to light on this car.

Nissan Leaf sunroof problems

The sunroof on the Nissan Leaf has had some reported issues where they either rattle, crack or in the worst case they “explode”. The sunroof is an optional extra on the Nissan Leaf and sunroofs are normally made from thick tempered glass. However, to save weight and aid in efficiency Nissan made the roof from thinner glass on this model.

Thinner glass doesn’t have the same strength as the thicker glass so the problem lies in the design of the sunroof. This problem is reported on cars up until 2017. After this model, there are no reports of this problem so we suspect that the sunroof has been revised from this model onwards.

Image Credit: Pixabay

Why are Nissan Leafs so cheap used?

The main reason that Nissan Leafs are so inexpensive on the used market is that many buyers are worried about battery life, battery degradation and potential battery problems. But are these worries justified? 

Early model Nissan Leaf

In the early days of the Leaf, the range when new was only 82 miles, which let’s be honest, isn’t a huge amount. 

Considering a lot of those vehicles are 5-10 years old now, some of the earlier ones have lost from 10% to 30% of their original range. If you have a car that started out with 82 miles range and has now potentially lost 30% of its range. The car will now only be capable of travelling 57.4 miles, and there aren’t many people out there who would be satisfied with this sort of range. This limits the market for the wrong reasons and in turn, causes a price reduction in order to sell units.

Newer model Leaf’s

The newer models from 2018 offer upwards of 150 miles driving range which is much more usable. They also have improved the battery over the years and the newer models don’t suffer anywhere near as much battery degradation as the early cars. One user reported buying a used vehicle and after 4 years of ownership, they only lost 7% of the battery capacity. No performance decrease was recorded during this period either. Most people could live with that type of wear and tear. This also shows because the newer models demand a higher price on the used market relative to the older models.

Image Credit: Pixabay

Nissan Leaf automatic emergency braking problems

Nissan Leaf’s are fitted with an automatic emergency braking (AEB) function. This is a system that uses sensors at the front of the car to detect when a collision might occur and then the car can apply the brakes automatically to prevent the impact.

This system has been reported to be faulty on some vehicles and can trigger when no object is actually there. Causing the vehicle to perform an emergency stop without any reason.

This could lead to the driver being caught up in a rear-end collision if another car is following closely when the fault occurs. 

The fault lies with a few components but mainly the radar on the front grill. Bosch is the supplier of this part and in some instances, the radar is triggering a false positive identification of an object and causing the AEB to activate the brakes, seemingly randomly.

Although there was no recall for this fault, the radar unit is replaced under warranty on cars that are affected by this issue.

Brake disc and caliper
Photo by Benjamin Brunner on Unsplash

Other front-facing sensors can also be faulty and trigger the AEB system. Sometimes a software glitch can also cause the same problem.

Nissan has released many technical service bulletins for remedies to this fault. It is something that is currently being managed well and is under control.

This fault comes to life sooner rather than later on the Nissan Leaf, so it’s common to see this fault on very low mileage vehicles.

This makes it less of a worry to people buying on the used market as it’s something that if present, appears early on in the life of the car and gets repaired by the manufacturer.

Do Nissan Leaf’s have faulty airbags?

There is a manufacturer recall for passenger airbag sensors on the 2013 model Nissan Leaf. It’s not the actual airbag that’s faulty but the sensor used to trigger it in the event of an accident.

The airbag warning light will be illuminated on the dashboard. If so the passenger seat should stop be being used immediately.

The manufacturer recalled all affected vehicles with this fault, and by now all of the cars with this potential issue should’ve been fixed.

It’s worth checking if you are buying a Nissan Leaf that it has had the recall work carried out. Or if you own one it is worth checking if it is one of the recalled vehicles. There should be no compromise on the safety of you and your passengers.

Image Credit: Pixabay

Nissan leaf air conditioning problems

There are some reported problems with the air conditioning unit on the Nissan Leaf. The problem is not with the blower fan as there are only issues when trying to use the air conditioning.

The problem is normally due to one of the following things, a faulty hose or a faulty compressor.

Nissan Leaf air conditioning hose problem

The problem lies with one of the hoses in the refrigerant circulation system. This hose cracks and then allows for refrigerant to leak out of the air conditioning system. Once enough of this has leaked out the system becomes airlocked and then the circulation of refrigerant stops.

And with no refrigerant, there is no way to create cool air. Luckily the fix is easy and low cost. The hose is replaced, the aircon is re-gassed and this solves the issue.

Nissan Leaf air conditioning compressor problems

The other reported part to fail on the air conditioning system is the compressor.

This can sometimes be diagnosed with an audible grinding noise when the air conditioning is turned on. But this noise isn’t present in all reports of this problem.

The only fix is to replace the compressor. This will solve the issue and get the air conditioning back up and running.

What’s the life expectancy of a Nissan Leaf battery?

The Life expectancy of the Nissan Leaf can be split into two categories. Early model cars up to 2017, and newer model cars from then onwards.

Image Credit: Pixabay

Nissan Leaf battery life expectancy problems

As we mentioned earlier the batteries in the early model Nissan leaf were not that impressive of a unit. It had issues with prematurely losing capacity and therefore losing range.

The car couldn’t really afford to do considering it had such a small range to begin with.

The battery was also lacking the technology to adjust its output depending on the temperature.

This meant that when the weather was cold the battery could lose up to 50% of its capacity just due to thermal effects. This is a big problem if you live somewhere that experiences any sort of winter. And the problem becomes worse if you are using heaters and lights. Two things you use all the time in the winter.

Do new Nissan Leafs still have battery problems?

Buyers will be happy to hear that Nissan conducted their own research and testing and concluded that the life expectancy of the new battery is 22 years. An astonishing figure for something that previously, would’ve had problems maintaining a reasonable capacity for 5 years.

With advances in modern battery technology, the battery can also now adjust its performance based on weather factors. So there isn’t as big a problem with range reduction when the weather is cold.

Is the Nissan Leaf worth buying?

So taking all this into account let’s conclude and see if the problems with this car make it one to avoid when looking for an electric vehicle.

There are some reported issues with the Leaf. But these issues are things that have been acknowledged by the manufacturer and there are fixes.

The battery life concerns of the earlier cars is not something that really translates to the newer models. If the battery is capable of lasting 22 years then this should fill you with confidence that you will be able to drive without worrying about having any battery issues.

Man holding money
Photo by lucas Favre on Unsplash

The Airbag fault was recalled so we can expect the majority of cars with this fault to have been fixed by now. And the cars with the AEB issue are also being fixed as and when the issue presents itself.

But like we said, this fault appears early on in the lifespan of the car. So buying a higher mileage model could help you avoid this problem.

The sunroof fault only affects cars fitted with the optional sunroof up to 2017. So choosing a model without the sunroof or a post-2017 model will help you avoid this problem.

The problems with the air conditioning are much lower in reported numbers that the rest of the things we talked about. So these issues shouldn’t be at the forefront of your mind. They may crop up, but they also may not. 

Conclusion

We think you should avoid the early model cars as they have worse battery life, range and are generally less refined. The newer range of the Nissan Leaf from 2018 onwards looks like a great option if you want to get into the world of electric vehicles.

With outstanding batteries and great overall reliability, we think that if you’re in the market for a new car, it’s definitely one you should consider. One of the big decisions when deciding on an electric vehicle is whether you go with the subscription model or buy. We have broken this down for you in the following article: Electric Car Subscription Vs Buying: Which One Is Best?

We hope you’ve enjoyed reading this article on Nissan Leaf problems. If you found this useful leave a comment telling us why and share this with anyone else who could benefit from the information we have covered here.

Brake Disc Worn, Pitted, or Scored but Not Seriously Weakened?

Andy Marchant
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1
Brake Disc Worn, Pitted, or Scored but Not Seriously Weakened?

One of the most common advisories you will find on an MOT is the “brake disc worn, pitted, or scored but not seriously weakened” warning. For a lot of drivers, this message is considered a relatively minor advisory and is something that the majority of motorists ignore.

However, while a car with worn, pitted, or scored brake discs can pass an MOT, they can still pose a danger if left unchecked. It is important, then, to understand the extent of the problem.

Top 4 Car Diagnostic Tools that Save You Money on Repairs

Below, we’ll take a look at the “brake disc worn, pitted, or scored but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))” advisory and discuss what to do about problem for yourself. We’ll also go over the options in repairing or fixing worn brake discs and why you should always stay on the side of caution.

Brake Disc Worn Pitted or Scored

What does brake disc worn pitted or scored mean?

 The “brake, disc worn, pitted, or scored” advisory is part of the MOT inspection manual and can be found under the Brakes, Condition and Operation section (1.1.14 (a) (ii)). It is given by MOT inspectors when they discover a problem with your brake discs that do not yet require replacement. This means that while the brake discs are showing signs of usage, they are still serviceable and your car can still brake safely, if not perfectly.

  • Worn: Over time, usage will make the brake disc become thinner. The brake disc surface will have a thickness that the manufacturer recommends not to be exceeded. The official MOT guidance, however, does state that inspector judgment should be used and that exceeding this can still pass an MOT.
  • Pitted: If a brake disc is pitted it will show small, relatively shallow holes on the surface. This will look rusty and be brown in colour.
  • Scored: A scored brake disc will have uniform lines running the entire circumference of its surface. While these lines can be caused by abrasion, they are just as often where the brake pad is not meeting the surface of the disc, leaving unsmooth marks.
Brake Disc Worn Pitted or Scored
Image Credit: Unsplash

Signs of worn, pitted, or scored brakes

While the worn, pitted, or scored warning does not require immediate attention, it does mean you should keep your eye on your brakes. Knowing the signs that your brake discs are beginning to wear down is something that can potentially avoid further car troubles, accidents, or worse.

Fortunately, the signs that brakes are failing are fairly obvious and can be identified without mechanical experience.

Vibrations or shaking when braking

If you notice your steering wheel vibrates or you experience a shaking sensation when braking, it could be that your brake discs are beginning to fail. These vibrations can be caused by scores and grooves on the surface of the disc which causes a vibration through the steering column upon applying the brake.

Squeaking or grinding sound

One of the more obvious signs your brake discs will need replacing soon is a scraping or squealing sound upon braking. While your brake discs might not be completely flat if they are worn down or warped in some way. The friction from brake pads can cause this sound.

Top 4 Car Diagnostic Tools that Save You Money on Repairs

This is also a symptom of worn out pads as the metal structure begins to rub against the metal of the disc. It is important to address this right away to avoid serious braking performance issues & further damage to the disc.

Slow braking

You might also notice coming to a stop takes longer than it used to. As brake discs experience wear and tear, their ability to brake quickly is diminished. While this might not be MOT fail-worthy, it can make your brakes feel spongey and make driving feel a little unnerving. It’s important to keep a close eye on your stopping distance as it can indicate the wear of your brake discs has gone beyond a safe point.

Sluggish acceleration

While it might seem counter-intuitive, if your car is slow to accelerate, it could mean your brake discs are beginning to fail or even require replacement. If a brake disc becomes warped or corroded, it can cause brakes to seize temporarily, reducing your car’s ability to accelerate.

Brake Disc
Image Credit: Pexels

What causes worn, pitted, or scored brake discs?

While there are a myriad of reasons that the condition of brake discs deteriorates, these are the most common causes:

  • General usage

Modern car brakes still operate on a fairly simple principle of applying friction. While the materials and methods have become refined over the years, this still generates heat and wears the surface of brakes in the process.

  • Moisture & humidity

Wet road conditions or high air humidity can also corrode brake discs. This can cause pitting as moisture is left to corrode the disc’s surface over time.

  • Road salt

Anti-icing, road salt can also cause brake discs to corrode. Road salt is made from standard sodium chloride. While this helps lower the melting point of ice, the chemical process can have an oxidation effect on iron and steel, causing corrosion.

  • Worn brake pads

If your brake pads have uneven wear or are worn down, they can cause damage to your brake discs. This can score the brake discs as a non-treated surface compresses against the surface.

  • Improper fitting

If a brake disc has been improperly fitted, it may become worn unevenly. A brake disc should be flush to brake pads and not be warped. You will experience vibrations, poor handling, and potentially sluggish acceleration if it is not.

  • Heavy/frequent braking

Brake discs can also become worn due to poor driving habits or non-standard journeys. Regularly going from high-speed driving to slow speeds, for example, can introduce excessive wear on your brake discs.

Brake Disc Inspection

Do pitted rotors need to be replaced?

Brake discs and rotors are the same, with some people referring to them differently.

All brake discs will show signs of age eventually. This includes becoming rusty and pitted as moisture is introduced to the rotor surface. If the rust is deep enough, the discs should likely be replaced as it will gradually reduce performance.

Do scored brake discs need replacing?

Scored brake discs are typically caused by worn-down brake pads. If they become overly worn, the metal base of the pad will begin to mark the brake disc surface. Scoring can also be caused by grit and other debris getting stuck in the braking mechanism.

While light scoring is quite common and will not fail an MOT, severe scoring requires brake discs to be changed. Failure to do so can cause brakes to not work as well and potentially cause an accident.

How to check your brake discs

You can check your brake discs yourself quite easily. With your vehicle safely parked, turn your steering wheel to a neutral position. Next, peer through the opening on your wheel alloys and visually inspect the surface of the disc brake. Ideally, this should be shiny and not have any visible cracks, scoring, rust, or pitting.

Top 4 Car Diagnostic Tools that Save You Money on Repairs

Vehicles with solid hub caps can be a little less simple as the wheel trim blocks the view of the callipers. To inspect the brakes you may need to remove the wheel/lift the vehicle up on a ramp to get a good look.

If in doubt, a trained mechanic can quickly check the condition of your brake discs. They can even measure them using specialised callipers.

Brake Disc Worn Pitted or Scored
Image Credit: Pexels

Tips to prolong the life of your brake discs

As a mechanical system with many moving parts, your brake discs along with other components will wear down over time. However, you can still prolong the life of your brake discs with the following tips:

  • Replace brake fluid every 1-2 years: Most vehicle manufacturers recommend that you change your brake fluid every 2 years or less. This recommendation is regardless of how many miles you complete as moisture naturally finds its way into the brake fluid. If your brake fluid does not work correctly, it can affect how brake pads are applied to discs. This causes uneven wear on both.
  • Use economic driving: Motorists should also attempt to drive economically. This means using engine braking and natural slow-down to reduce speed when possible, and avoiding over-acceleration or harsh braking. Driving smoothly and gently in this way is better for your brake discs. It is also good for fuel economy, increasing your range by around 15%.
  • Empty your boot: The more weight your car is holding the more stopping power it will require to come to a halt. This added stopping power means brakes will experience more stress, causing additional wear to discs and pads. You can help prevent this by emptying your boot and only carrying the essentials in your car. This reduces your stopping distance and the strain on the braking system.
  • Always use your right foot to brake: It can be tempting in automatic cars or in specialised driving situations with manual cars to use your left foot to apply the brake. This should be avoided, however. Applying both the brake and the accelerator at the same time is a sure-fire way to wear down brakes quickly.
Brake Disc Caliper
Image Credit: Pexels

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it safe to buy a car with this problem?

Ultimately, it is safe to buy a car with the “worn, pitted, or scored” brake advisory. This means a qualified MOT inspector has determined the car is safe to drive for now. There have been several cases reported to the UK Ombudsman with disgruntled new owners soon having to replace brake discs after purchase. In each case, it was deemed the car was sold fully working and in drivable condition. This said, make sure this is reflected in the price of the vehicle.

How dangerous is a “worn, pitted or scored” MOT advisory?

While there is no immediate threat from this advisory, it should not be ignored. Brakes are perhaps the most important part of a car and should be treated as such. Most brake discs with this advisory will last weeks, if not months before completely failing. Just like minor oil leak advisories, you should replace brake discs at this point to avoid accidents.

Are brake discs expensive?

Brake discs vary in price but a pair costs on average between £90-100. Luxury brand cars and larger vehicles tend to have more expensive components.

With labour, replacing front and back brake discs costs around £300-400 depending on your vehicle and locale. It is highly recommended to change the pads and have your parking brake system inspected at the same time too, not least to save on future labour costs and improve safety. 

Conclusion

We hope this has been an insightful article on this common MOT issue. Don’t forget to check your brakes regularly and have them inspected by a professional if you are unsure.

If you have suffered your own brake disc worn pitted or Scored issues, feel free to leave us a comment below.

Peugeot 207 Blown Head Gasket: Symptoms & Solutions

Joseph Law
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0
Peugeot 207 Blown Head Gasket: Symptoms & Solutions

In this article, we explain the most common Peugeot 207 blown head gasket symptoms and provide recommended solutions. Despite the 207 being widely regarded as a reliable car, sadly head gasket problems are all too common with the 1.4 and 1.6 variants being most affected.

A blown head gasket can ruin your day and your wallet. It often happens with little warning and can cause serious damage to your engine.

Read our handy guide on everything you need to know about a Peugeot 207 blown head gasket, including common symptoms to watch out for.

We look at what you should do if you think your 207 has blown a head gasket, plus costs of repair. 

 

If you are currently having problems with your Peugeot 207, we recommend booking a local, trusted mechanic through Fixter.

They will provide an instant quote online. Their certified mechanics will carefully select a vetted garage that can handle the job, they will have your car picked up, and then returned when it is fixed (often on the same day).

They are owned by the Renault Group so they carry some serious credibility. If you have a problem that currently needs attention, get a quote now.

What is the Cylinder Head?

The head is, as the name suggests, at the top of the engine, bolted to the top of the engine block. They are usually made from cast aluminium or steel, and contain the valve-train. This is the camshaft, valves, valve seats and valve lifters. 

The head seals the combustion chamber, and also connects the various oil and water passageways between the block. This allows oil to flow to the camshaft and lifters and water to cool the head itself. 

What is the Engine Block?

Engine block and timing chain
Image by Free-Photos from Pixabay

Conventional Peugeot 207 engines are composed of two main elements, the Head and the Block. The engine block is the largest component and contains the pistons, crankshaft and sump. To the block all other ancillary components are attached. These include the alternator, water pump, starter motor and more.

What is a Head Gasket?

In order to maintain a seal between the combustion chamber and the outside, as well as between the combustion chamber and the oil/water passages, a gasket is used. A gasket is a thin material cut to the correct shape. The gasket deforms slightly when compressed, this fills in the minute gaps in the joining face of the two components. 

What is Head Gasket Failure?

Head gasket failure results in the breaking down of the gasket material between the cylinder cavity and an oil or water cavity. This results in a mix of liquid and gas between these areas. 

The most common reason is ruptured sealing between the cylinder itself and coolant areas. This results in large amounts of coolant entering the cylinder, as well as the coolant system becoming pressurised. 

What Can Cause My 207 Head Gasket to Fail

There are numerous reasons a blown head gasket can occur. The primary one is manufacturing defects. The Peugeot 207 models are infamous for head gasket issues that can be resolved with higher quality parts. 

Other causes can be from overheating. If the engine is allowed to overheat, due to excessive engine RPM and no cooling, or through a complete lack of coolant, the head itself can warp. This warping can create the smallest of gaps in the mating surfaces, allowing the high pressure air in the cylinder to blow the gasket material out further. 

Symptoms of Head Gasket Failure

Peugeot 207 Head Gasket

When your head gasket fails, it is important to stop driving immediately. The coolant will begin to be burnt in the cylinders, once this reaches a certain level, the coolant will no longer sufficiently remove heat from the engine. Knowing the symptoms can reduce the level of damage sustained.

Steam from the Exhaust

One of the first signs may well be plumes of steam exiting the engine. This is from the coolant being burnt off inside the cylinders. Not only is this alarming it can be dangerous to other parts of the engine, especially on turbocharged cars.

Reduction in Power

Engines work at very high pressures to be efficient. If the pressure is escaping through the head gasket, the energy is not being converted into useful power. 

This will result in the car being significantly down on power and sluggish. 

Oil in the Water System

As the gasket is no longer doing its job of containing the cylinders, oil and waterways, the oil will likely be present in the coolant system.

This can be seen when examining the coolant, it should be a bright colour, usually green, blue or orange. If it is greyed or darkening, it is likely it is contaminated with oil. 

Engine management Light 

In some severe instances, a blown 207 head gasket will trigger an engine management light to appear. You may notice a “beep” and a red engine component shaped light that doesn’t disappear when driving. At this point, the vehicle will need to be looked at as soon as possible to prevent further damage.

Peugeot 207 Head Gasket Warning light
Image Credit: Pexels

Water in the oil

Similar to the above, coolant can enter the engine’s oil system. This will be pumped around the engine and gearbox and drain to the sump. Any water that enters the system is often aerated by this action and begins to froth. 

This results in a milky/yellow coloured liquid, more viscous than water but less so than oil. The best places to check for this are in the oil filler cap and the engine’s dipstick. 

Consumption of Oil

As the engines working fluids are mixing and entering areas they shouldn’t be, the consumption of these fluids is a good indicator that something is wrong. 

The oil may be difficult to notice passively, it is good practice to regularly check the dipstick and monitor and record when oil top ups are required. 

This can be problematic if not noticed, as the engine can become starved of oil. This will result in a complete failure of the main bearings supporting the crankshaft. 

How Can I Fix My 207 Head Gasket?

Mechanic fixing blown head gasket
Image Credit: Pixabay

If you find yourself with a blown head gasket, there is really only one legitimate way to resolve this, by dismantling and replacing the gasket.

As the head gasket is between the head and the cylinder block, there is a fair amount of labour involved in removing this. All the ancillary components attached to the head such as the water pump, cambelt etc will need to be removed too.

If the car has been overheated significantly, the cylinder head should be inspected. High heats within the engine with no cooling can cause the head to warp. If this is not noticed and rectified before rebuilding, further problems will be experienced. 

How to detect and fix a Warped Head

The head will need to be checked on a milling machine or inspection table. Warping can be as little as 5 thousands of an inch but can cause the engine to run roughly, or blow the head gasket again once rebuilt.

If the head is slightly warped, it can be machined by a specialist engine builder. This then allows the head gasket to seal when reassembled. 

If the head is too warped however, it may not be possible to machine. In this case the head will need to be scrapped and a new one purchased. This can become expensive as the camshaft bearings and seals would also need to be replaced. If in doubt a Peugeot main dealer or reliable garage can check this for you. 

Engine
Imagre Credit: Pexels

How Much Will it Cost to Fix a Failed Head Gasket?

The answer to this depends on how serious the failure is, especially how hot the engine gets whilst the coolant is dry. As this will depend on the level of warping present on the head. A Peugeot 207 blown head gasket may be detected early by watching out for common symptoms and preventing further damage.

If the warping is minimal, the only replacement parts needed are a new head gasket. It is also advisable to change components such as the water pump and cambelt, as these are maintenance items that will need to be removed anyway. 

It is therefore sensible to save the extra cost of replacing these in the future by doing it all at once. In this instance, approximately 8 hours would be required to complete the job.

This gives for a total of approximately £400 in labour and £100 in parts. 

If the head needs machining however, this increases depending on the costs charged by the garage’s local machine shop. The cost of machining a head starts from £35.

How can I Prevent Head Gasket Damage

PSA Car Engine
Image Credit: Unsplash

The main causes for head gasket failure are overheating. Therefore any conditions where this may happen should be avoided. 

One instance of this is when the car is ran with inadequate cooling, such as on a dynamometer or with the radiator blocked. The engine can also overheat if it is ran at low speeds but high RPM. 

Whilst these are not common instances, there is one situation where most people could find themselves in, which is low coolant. The coolant is circulated around the engine and radiator to remove the heat. 

This means it is very important to regularly check the coolant and ensure it is kept topped up. It should also be changed and the system flushed every 20,000 miles, to ensure no debris or sludge builds up anywhere in the system. Always double check fluids are certified or Peugeot vehicles. Different manufacturers often have their own specifications.

What to do if Your Head Gasket has Started to Fail

If you notice any of the issues listed above with your 207. In particular increased oil or coolant consumption, smoke from the exhaust system or consistent overheating, your head gasket may be beginning to fail.

It is vital that you do everything to mitigate this, as continuing to use the vehicle may cause issues. 

If you are away from home, it may be necessary to call a tow service to get you home. If the car is in a dangerous position then it would be acceptable to move it under its own power. 

However, it is inadvisable to drive more than absolutely necessary, and especially not under high load or RPM. The car should be switched off and allowed to cool. 

If you have to move the vehicle, it may be possible to add some extra water to the cooling system to prevent extreme overheating. 

Do not attempt to open the coolant tank whilst the engine is hot, and do not attempt any other methods to cool the engine. 

Conclusion

We hope this guide has helped you to diagnose and repair the 207 head gasket.

If you don’t already have a trusted garage in your area, consider booking a mechanic through Fixter.

If you have experienced your own Peugeot 207 blown head gasket symptoms or found an efficient way to repair please let us know in the comments.

Common Ford 1.6 Ecoboost Engine Problems & Solutions

Andy Marchant
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0
Common Ford 1.6 Ecoboost Engine Problems & Solutions

Despite being one of the most innovative, and reliable engines in recent years, Ford 1.6 EcoBoost engine problems are not uncommon. While most problems can be avoided with simple upkeep, there are some owners and prospective buyers should be mindful of.

Rolling out in 2010, Ford’s four-cylinder, turbocharged 1.6 litre EcoBoost found itself central to the company’s main lineup until 2018. The engine represented a fresh approach for Ford, as they wound down Zetec production and began releasing its new, smaller but more efficient “pocket rockets” for widespread use. Gradually this powerplant has been phased out to make way for the slightly more economical 1.5 Ecoboost Engine.

The 1.6L EcoBoost engine pushed aside the 1.8 and 1.5 litre Zetec engines and brought with it a bunch of new features. These include stop-start capability, direct fuel injection, Ford’s own Variable Cam Timing technology (VCT), intelligent cooling, and a turbocharger to ensure power is not sacrificed in spite of the lower capacity.

Ford Ecoboost
Image Credit: Unsplash

Cars featuring the 1.6 EcoBoost

With the addition of an all-aluminium block design, low-friction gains, and timing refinements, Ford managed to create an engine that surpassed the performance of the previous generation engines while being considerably smaller.

This meant the engine had widespread applicability and was capable of powering a wide range of Ford’s lineup with output from 150hp to 182hp. The 4-cylinder 1.6 EcoBoost also found its way into some of Volvo’s range until 2014 with cars such as the Mondeo and the V60/S60 sharing platforms and automobile DNA.

Cars featuring the 1.6L EcoBoost engine include:

  1.  Ford C-MAX
  2.  Ford Focus
  3.  Ford Fiesta ST
  4.  Ford Mondeo
  5.  Ford Galaxy
  6.  Ford Fusion
  7.  Ford Escape
  8.  Ford Transit Connect
  9.  Ford Fiesta ST
  10.  Volvo V40
  11.  Volvo V60
  12.  Volvo V70
  13.  Volvo S60
  14.  Volvo S80

Ford 1.6 Ecoboost
Image Credit: pexels

Is the Ford 1.6 EcoBoost a good engine?

With the 1.6L EcoBoost now out for over a decade, a fair assessment can be made on the reliability of the engine. Cars featuring the engine have now begun to reach the upper mileage recommendation (if following Ford’s official line) and overall, the 1.6 EcoBoost is considered to be a solid if unremarkable engine.

Among the first in the EcoBoost family to be released, the 1.6L Ecoboost was a guinea pig of sorts, with consumers putting the new lineup through its paces.

Owners report decent mileage in the 1.6 with official fuel economy reported being around 44-47mpg in a Focus. This translates into a real-world figure of around 38mpg when reported by most owners online which is somewhat lower than the official number. Nevertheless, on longer runs, you can expect to see decent returns nearing the official line and are pretty standard for a larger petrol engine.

While the EcoBoost is never going to win a drag race, its turbo does a good job at making the 1.6 feel like a 1.8 or bigger. This includes a surprisingly beefy sound and ramping up in power.

Engine
Imagre Credit: Pexels

Common Ford 1.6 EcoBoost Engine Problems

Most of the common problems relating to the 1.6 EcoBoost are not unique to this specific variant. Owners should be careful to look out for these issues and act swiftly if noticed to prevent bigger problems from occurring.

Below, you’ll find the most common Ford 1.6 EcoBoost engine problems, how to spot them, and how to get things sorted.

1. Carbon Deposits

As with all direct injection engines, the Ford 1.6 EcoBoost suffers from a build-up of carbon over time. This is a natural consequence of fuel entering the intake valves directly, with friction and heat leaving a carbon residue.

As the 1.6 EcoBoost has no self-cleaning mechanism in place, this carbon simply accumulates until it begins clogging the valve. This interrupts not only airflow but the insertion of fuel. This will not damage your engine but will diminish fuel economy and engine power.

Symptoms: An early sign of carbon build-up is a noticeable loss in power and your car will seem to perform poorly in terms of fuel efficiency.

If left to an excessive amount, carbon build-up will cause engine misfires, rough idles, and delayed response when accelerating.

Fix: There are now plenty of garages that will conduct a valve clean on your engine using a special additive. This medium is soft enough to not cause damage but hard enough to dislodge and remove carbon. This costs anywhere from £100 onwards depending on your location.

As the process involves the removal of the intake manifold, labour costs can also be expected to be tacked onto this figure.

As a preventative measure, or to treat early symptoms, make sure to get your engine flushed with every oil service. This involves adding a liquid to your existing oil, allowing it to heat up for 15 minuets and then draining as normal. This solution helps remove carbon deposits, sludge, varnish and other nasties before replacing with fresh oil.

EcoBoost Maintainance
Image Credit: Pexels

2. Ignition Trouble

While not unique to the 1.6 EcoBoost, owners do report getting through more spark plugs and ignition coils than the manual suggests is normal. These components are relatively inexpensive so this is not necessarily a major problem.

As a turbo direct injection variant, the 1.6 litre EcoBoost is a little more taxing on these parts than a non-turbo equivalent. This means you can shave off some of the expected 80-90k lifespan of a sparkplug and the 130k+ estimate for a coil.

Symptoms: Fortunately, dead spark plugs and ignition coils are some of the easiest problems to diagnose. You will notice your car regularly misfiring with the idle feeling rough. You will also experience overall bad performance from the engine as it struggles to ignite fuel.

Fix: For owners of cars with the 1.6 EcoBoost engine, replacing spark plugs and ignition coils more frequently than recommended is the go-to advice. While this can be undertaken by a trained mechanic, it is also something you can do at home with parts costing between £20 and £50.

1.6 Ecoboost Ignition
Image Credit: Pixabay

3. Timing Belt Wear

Most timing belts will need to be replaced around 150k miles into their life. For most drivers, this will be after around 10 years of driving. In the case of the Ford EcoBoost 1.6l, however, the timing belt appears to wear out a lot quicker, needing replacement after just a few years.

This issue has not affected all models but is a fairly widespread issue with some owners left frustrated by the failure of such a vital component. As a light belt, owners do benefit from lower engine noise. These are weaker than timing chains though, with the 1.6’s relatively powerful output seemingly pushing belts harder than ideal.

Ignoring a bad timing belt can eventually lead to serious engine damage.

Symptoms: A bad timing belt will cause a number of problems, most notably an unusual ticking sound from under the bonnet. You may also experience worse performance from your car and find the check engine light appears on your dash.

Fix: There isn’t a whole lot you can do to fix a worn or damaged belt other than replacing it. This is a relatively expensive fix costing £300+ with most of the cost being labour.

Most vehicles will be in the garage for the majority of the day and sometimes 2. This time consuming job usually involves removing the entire front bumper & radiator too. It is difficult to avoid this problem, however good driving practice is encouraged as well as regular oil changes.

Timing Belt
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4. Overheating Issue

Over ten years into its life and it appears there is a Ford 1.6 EcoBoost engine overheating problem. In most cases, this only affects earlier cars ranging from 2010 to 2015. Specifically, the Fusion, Fiesta ST, and Escape models are most affected.

The issue is seemingly caused by various leaks in the thermostat housing, causing low pressure in the coolant system. This causes the engine to overheat, with cracked head-gaskets possible and coolant intrusion into cylinders causing corrosion.

With reports coming in since 2017, the issue is now fairly well documented with Ford issuing recalls and refunds for over 15,000 cars. In some cases, this overheating has even caused fires so it’s worth keeping your eye on this problem.

Symptoms: The best way to tell if you have a coolant leak is to simply check your levels regularly, before and after journeys if possible. Most coolant is a bright colour due to anti-freeze additives so it’s quite easy to spot leaks, especially if your car has been standing for a day or two.

If you do run the car low on coolant, you’ll notice the engine temperature dial swing to the right fairly quickly. This will cause the engine to behave abnormally, sound differently, and feel sluggish.

Fix: Most cars will lose some coolant due to everyday use. However, regularly checking and topping up coolant is the best way to avoid damage to the engine itself through overheating. If you suspect you have a leak, contact a trained mechanic who will be able to tell you if you’re suffering from the common 1.6 EcoBoost overheating problem.

Alternatively, there are leak stopping fluid additives you can add to the coolant. This should seal most minor leaks, however it is not considered a permanent fix.

Ford Logo
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Frequently Asked Questions

How long will a 1.6 EcoBoost engine last?

Ford’s conservative estimate is that the 1.6 EcoBoost will last anywhere between 80-100,000 miles. In the experience of most owners, however, this is a lowball figure. Despite the problems listed above, the average well-maintained 1.6 EcoBoost can quite easily reach 150,000 miles and upwards.

Does the Ford 1.6 EcoBoost have a timing belt?

Yes, the 1.6 EcoBoost features a dry timing belt. This is considered quieter than a timing chain as it causes fewer vibrations. A quirk of the 1.6 EcoBoost timing belt is that its tensioner is bolted to the water pump. This necessitates its replacement at the same time.

What turbocharger does the 1.6L EcoBoost have?

The turbocharger in 1.6 EcoBoost engines is a Borg Warner KP39 that is fixed to an iron exhaust manifold. This is partially water-cooled with exhaust gases fed to a tri-way catalytic converter. This complies with Euro-5 emission standards.

What horsepower is the 1.6 EcoBoost?

While the engine has the capacity to output 197 horsepower, most cars featuring the 1.6 EcoBoost see between 150-178hp. The most impressive is the Ford Fiesta ST (2013-2019) which can achieve the full 197hp at 6000rpm.

Ford 1.6 Ecoboost
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Conclusion

While most of these common problems can be avoided with simple maintenance, some will be unavoidable over time. Be sure to replace the oil at regular intervals and use an engine flush. This will remove those carbon deposits and sludge that can build up easily in the EcoBoost engine.

Overall, Ford engines from this generation are considered reliable and cost effective to run. This 1.6 variant is no exception. After a decade since its initial production, it can be said this engine has stood the test of time. With hundreds of thousands still in use, and spare parts readily available, the Ecoboost engine will continue to be a smart used buy for years to come.

If you have experienced your own Ford 1.6 EcoBoost engine problems, please feel free to leave a comment below.

Tesla Model X Problems: 5 Common Issues & FAQ’s

Andy Marchant
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0
Tesla Model X Problems: 5 Common Issues & FAQ’s

In this article, we’ll take a look at some of the most common Tesla Model X problems and offer solutions on how to avoid them. We look at what to look for when purchasing your Model X, servicing, longevity and FAQ’s. 

The Tesla Model X is an all electric SUV that first came to market in 2015. It has a unique falcon-wing door design and offers seating for up to seven passengers. The Model X also has a range of up to 325 miles, making it one of the longest-range EVs on the market. Certain models can accelerate from 0-60 mph in just 3.2 seconds, making it one of the quickest SUVs on the road.

In addition to its performance credentials, the Model X is also one of the safest SUVs on the market, with a five-star safety rating from the NHTSA. Overall, the Tesla Model X is an impressive SUV that offers cutting-edge technology, impressive performance, and industry-leading safety features.

Tesla’s Model X is truly inspiring EV, but it is known for a selection of problems. If you’re the owner of a Tesla Model X or are thinking of buying one, it’s important to be aware of these issues and how to resolve them.

Tesla Model X
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1. Controlling Vehicle Speed

The Model X has been known to have issues with speed control, often going faster than the driver intends. This can be problematic on the motorway, where speeding is a major safety hazard and can land you a hefty fine. As a result, speed control is one of the most common Tesla Model X problems.

In addition, the Model X’s speed can make it difficult to manoeuvre in tight spaces, such as car parks. Fortunately, Tesla is aware of this issue and is working on a software update that will give drivers more control over the car’s speed. In the meantime, drivers should exercise caution when driving the Model X and be prepared for sudden accelerations.

A way to control your speed is to use cruise control. This is a common feature on many cars, but it’s worth mentioning here because it can be difficult to set the cruise control on the Model X. The reason for this is that the car’s speed increases in increments of 0.25 mph, which can make it difficult to set the exact speed you want.

Another way to control your speed is by using paddle shifters. These are located on the steering wheel and allow you to manually shift the car’s gears. This can be useful when driving in traffic or in other situations where you need more control.

Tesla Superchargers

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2. Electrical Issues

Tesla’s electrical system is one of the most complex systems of any vehicle, and the Model X is no exception. Unfortunately, this complexity can lead to various issues. 

The good news is that Tesla has been very proactive in addressing these problems, issuing multiple software updates that have addressed many of the faults found by owners. 

However, some still persist, and electrical problems are one of the most common reasons for owners to take their Model X into the service centre. A common example would be the screen being unresponsive, black or frozen.

Tesla interior
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3. Suspension Damages

Tesla’s X model SUV has had some issues with its suspension resulting in uneven tyre wear. One Tesla owner says that his car would bounce over small bumps and potholes, which significantly reduced the life of his tires. Tesla has issued a software update to fix the problem, but it is unclear whether or not this will be effective in the long term.

In addition, some owners have reported experiencing problems with their car’s air suspension, which can result in a rough ride. Tesla is aware of the issue and is working on a fix. In the meantime, owners are advised to take their car to a Tesla service centre for an inspection if they experience any suspension issues.

4. Falcon Door Problems

Tesla’s creative, but over-the-top doors, have been a problem for many consumers. Customers of the Model X report that the doors seem fragile, and that they begin to malfunction after a short period of time.

Elon Musk publicly addressed these issues: “the software controlling the Model X and the operation of the doors has been extremely challenging to refine. The sets of sensors are complicated to work well. We’re getting there, I believe”

Tesla Model X Door Problems
Image Credit: Pixabay

5. Powertrain Difficulties

One of the most common Tesla Model X problems is with the powertrain. Tesla has issued a number of recalls including a software update to prevent the SUV from unexpectedly shifting into neutral.

Tesla has also had to replace several drive units in the Model X due to bearings failing. In addition, Tesla has had to replace several faulty charge ports in the Model X. While these issues have been frustrating for Tesla owners, the company has been quick to provide replacement parts and software updates. As a result, Tesla owners can continue to enjoy their Tesla Model X’s.

If you are facing problems with the powertrain it is critical to take it to a Tesla service centre right away.

Tesla Model X
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What Should I Look for When Purchasing a Tesla Model X?

With Tesla’s recent announcement of the updated Model X, there has been a lot of interest in the electric SUV. If you’re thinking about purchasing a Tesla Model X, there are a few things you should keep in mind. First, the Model X uses much more charge than its smaller Model 3 and Model S counterparts, with energy costs ever on the rise, this might not be the best choice for you.

Secondly, the Model X has a starting price of £74,000, which is significantly more than the starting price of the Model S. However, the Model X does come with some additional features, such as more cargo space and third-row seating. Finally, keep in mind that the Model X is still a relatively new model and may have some teething problems.

Tesla Dealership
Image Credit: Pixabay

Is the Tesla Model X Reliable?

Since its release in 2015 some people have heralded it as the future of the automotive industry, while others have criticised it for its high price tag and range. One thing that everyone can agree on, however, is that the Model X is a fascinating car. It’s packed with cutting-edge features, including all-wheel drive, autopilot capabilities, and a “falcon wing” door design. But does all of this technology come at the expense of reliability? While it’s still too early to say for sure, there have obviously been many owner reported Tesla Model X problems. 

These include issues listed above including doors, suspension, and electrical system. Tesla has worked to resolve these issues, but it’s possible that more will crop up as more people begin to drive the Model X. Only time will tell whether the Tesla Model X is a long term reliable car. For now, it remains an intriguing option for those who are looking for a cutting-edge SUV.

Tesla Model X Problems
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Tesla Model X Recommended Maintenance Schedule

Model X is designed to require minimal scheduled maintenance, unlike conventional gasoline cars that need frequent trips to the service station. However, there are still a few things you can do to keep your Model X running smoothly.

● Every 12 months or 12,500 miles (whichever comes first), have your Model X serviced by a Tesla-approved technician. This service includes a gearbox oil and filter change, tire rotation, and a general inspection.
● Every 24 months or 24,500 miles (whichever comes first) have your Model X’s batteries checked by a Tesla-approved technician. This service includes checking the battery pack for damage and ensuring that the cells are properly charged.
● Every 36 months or 36,500 miles (whichever comes first) have your Model X’s brakes checked by a Tesla-approved technician. This service includes inspecting the brake pads and discs for wear, as well as checking the fluid level in the brake system.

By following these simple recommendations, you can help ensure that your Model X remains in top condition for years to come.

Tesla Model X Weight

Curb weight is used to describe the complete mass of a car. It includes all equipment and fluids such as transmission fluid, screen wash, AC fluid and brake fluid. It does not include the weight of cargo or passengers as this can fluctuate greatly.  The gross weight is the expected maximum capacity of the vehicle including passengers and cargo.

Curb Weight

  1. 60D 2,301 kg
  2. 75D – 2,330 kg
  3. 90D – 2,391 kg
  4. P90D – 2,441 kg
  5. 100D – 2,459 kg
  6. P100D – 2,509 kg

How Long Does the Tesla Model X Last?

The Model X also comes with a host of safety and driver-assistance features, making it one of the most popular Tesla models. But how long does the Model X last? The answer depends on a number of factors, including driving habits, charging regime, and vehicle maintenance.

On average, it is predicted a Model X will 250,000 miles. However battery replacement and service schedules will need to be adhered to. With proper care and regular maintenance, the Model X could last even longer. So if you’re looking for an SUV that will go the distance, the Tesla Model X should definitely be at the top of your list.

Tesla Model X Problems
Image Credit: Pixabay

How Much Does It Cost to Maintain Your Tesla Model X

Maintaining a Tesla Model X is not as expensive as one might think. The company offers a variety of maintenance plans that are designed to fit the needs of all types of drivers. For example, the Basic Maintenance Plan covers the cost of routine maintenance, such as oil changes and tire rotations, for four years or 50,000 miles. The Enhanced Maintenance Plan adds coverage for Brake Pads and Rotors, as well as other wear-and-tear items.

And the Full Maintenance Plan provides the most comprehensive coverage, including all scheduled maintenance, as well as 24/7 roadside assistance. Prices for these plans start at just £5 per month. In addition, Tesla also offers a variety of extended warranties that can further reduce the costs of ownership. As a result, there are a number of ways to keep the cost of maintaining a Tesla Model X low.

Some other maintenance costs you should also consider include :

-Tyres: £600 to £1200 per set

-Brakes: £500 to £1000 per axle

-Oil changes: £100 to £200 per change

-Battery pack: £3000 to £5000

Overall, the Tesla Model X is a great car. It’s eco-friendly, stylish, and comes with a host of features that make it one of the most popular Tesla models. With proper care and regular maintenance, the Model X can last for around 250,000 miles.

Tesla Model X Charging
Image Credit: Pixabay

Conclusion

Tesla Model X is a great SUV with many amazing features. However, as with any new technologies, there are bound to be some glitches. Hopefully in time these issues can be solved. 

If you have experienced your own Tesla Model X problems, please leave us a comment below. Happy driving!

 

Audi 1.8 TFSI Engine Problems: Common Issues Explained

Matthew F
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1
Audi 1.8 TFSI Engine Problems: Common Issues Explained

Despite enjoying a good reputation, there are some fairly common Audi 1.8 TFSI engine problems that owners should be aware of. Some of these issues are exclusive to the 1.8 TFSI. Others listed are known to plague most of EA888 family. Audi owners report these problems more than any other.

The quiet and responsive 1.8-litre TFSI comprises part of the EA888 family of engines, designed and put together by Audi and its parent company, Volkswagen Group. Originally introduced in 2007, the 1.8 TFSI has since found its way into cars throughout the VW Group’s lineup. With Audi including the engine in a broad range of its vehicles.

This petrol engine is famed for hitting the sweet spot between price and performance. It has exceptional fuel consumption levels and delivers more than enough power when needed. Unlike some other petrol engines, the 1.8 TFSI delivers plenty of low-end torque too, making it great for town and city driving as well as long-distance cruising.

Audi 1.8 TFSI Engine
Image Credit: Pixabay

Audi 1.8 TFSI Engine Features

The 1.8 TFSI is now into its third generation. Over the years VW and Audi Group have sought to refine the engine and rectify faults. Superseding some of the EA113 family of engines, some of the 1.8 TFSI’s standout upgrades include:

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  • Lightweight and quiet: Thanks to refinements over the EA113 assembly and the use of better casting techniques, the 1.8 TFSI weighs just 135kg. With the addition of count-rotating balanced shafts and a rigid basic structure, the engine is famed for being quiet with little to no cabin vibrations experienced by owners.
  • Chain-driven cam: Doing away with a belt and the problems that accompany them, VW Audi Group instead opted for a chain-driven system in the 1.8 TFSI. Promising maintenance-free operation and better power efficiency, cars with the 1.8 TFSI engine are expected to last longer being made of more durable materials.
  • Turbocharged: Featuring a K03 Borg Warner turbocharger in Gen 1 and 2 and an IS12 in Gen 3, the Audi 1.8 TFSI combines and integrates everything via a single high-quality, allow module. This allows the engine to reach peak torque in just 1.2 seconds.
Audi1.8 TFSI
Image Credit: Pixabay

Which Audi cars have the 1.8 TFSI engine?

A popular choice for almost 15 years, the 1.8 TFSI can be found in a lot of Audi’s lineup, including the following:

This generation of EA888 engines can also be found in the Volkswagen group’s other brand lineups, including VW and Skoda vehicles.

Common Problems

While the engine is well-regarded, it is not without its faults. As part of the EA888 family, some of the Audi 1.8 TFSI engine problems are shared by others variants and can be found across a range of different vehicles.

Excessive Oil Consumption

Affecting the second generation EA888 engines more than others, the 1.8 TFSI is known for its excessive oil consumption. The manual states around 0.2 ml of oil will be used up for every 1000 km (620 miles) driven. Owners report this to be dramatically underestimated however with frequent top-ups needed.

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The main cause is the engine’s looser, thin piston rings, with the Gen 2 engines suffering worse than others. These “looser” engine parts were designed to cut emissions by reducing friction heat within engines. While this helped meet emission targets, it also introduced oil seepage problems.

All petrol engines will consume some oil over time. However, owners who notice blue smoke and oil warning lights should ensure their engine is regularly topped up. Gen 2 engine owners can, if they wish, replace the pistons and rings with tighter Gen 1 parts to mitigate the problem somewhat.

For the DIY mechanics reading, get your required parts from DIY Car Service Parts. Simply enter your registration to get suitable part recommendations for your specific car make & model.

Engine Maintenance
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Stretched Timing Chain

Another of the common Audi 1.8 TFSI Engine problems is stretched timing chains. This tends to affect the Gen 1 and Gen 2 1.8 TFSI engines most. While a timing chain is made of harder materials than a belt, they are composite parts with links and rollers wearing against each other over time. Despite the term “stretch” being used, it’s actually the wear and tear on these individual components that cause problems.

As the chain wears, these components begin to separate and misalign. causing misfires, rough idle, and sensor fault codes on Audi dashboards. Most owners report problems around the 80-90k miles mark.

The 1.8 TFSI engines are prone to timing chain stretch due to their excessive oil consumption leaving the part under-lubricated. Prolonging the life of a timing chain depends on good quality, clean oil lubricating components and keeping parts running smoothly. Longitudinally mounted, Gen 2 models are especially affected such as the Audi A4. This is because the 1.8 TFSI engines often find themselves low on oil and, as such, shortens the life span of the timing chain. While chains don’t need direct maintenance, keeping on top of oil top-ups can help prevent a costly £7k+ fix.

Timing Chain

Tensioner Failure

There is also a litany of complaints by owners who report substantial engine troubles as a result of the chain tensioner failing.

The chain tensioner is a mechanical device within the engine. It is responsible for maintaining tension in the timing chain. Allowing slack to form in the chain can cause underperformance and vibrations within the vehicle. If a tensioner fails it can allow so much slack to form that the chain will skip, potentially seizing the engine as valves make contact with pistons.

Some cars with the 1.8 TFSI engine are known to experience this problem, affecting older models made before May 2010. These engines used a different tensioner part (06H 109 467 N) that has since been revised. Those affected should contact an Audi garage if concerned.

Ignition Coil Failure

Plaguing a lot of the EA888 family is ignition coil problems cause the onboard computer to throw up various errors as well as the “check engine” light. The ignition coil takes electrical energy from the car’s battery and allows it to be used for combustion in the engine. These are relatively inexpensive parts that play an important role.

As well as warning lights, you can tell if you are experiencing 1.8 TFSI ignition coil problems as your engine will struggle or completely fail to start. Early signs of failure include rough turbo performance when reaching a high RPM as well as a rough idle.

While these can be replaced yourself, it can be difficult determining whether a problem lies with ignition coils or the spark plugs. Unless comfortable performing this yourself a trained mechanic should be consulted.

Audi TFSI Engine

Intake Valves Carbon Buildup

Carbon buildup is a result of fuel being injected directly into engine cylinders. It is a problem for almost all direct injection engines. Peering into an engine’s intake valves and cylinders, you may notice black soot-like deposits forming. This is a result of improperly burning fuel.

While carbon buildup is an expected part of combustion, this problem affects Gen 1 and Gen 2 1.8 TFSI variants of the EA888 family especially. The looser pistons as compared to Gen 3 and other engines mean the combustion is often incomplete. This can be exacerbated by cheaper, lower-grade petrol and short, stop-start journeys.

If carbon buildup is left unchecked, owners will begin to notice poor fuel economy, rough idle, and even engine misfires. Carbon buildup can be “blasted away” by a high-rpm drive on the motorway. However, a regular, professional valve cleaning is highly recommended.

Premature Water Pump Failure

Affecting other EA888 variants too, the 1.8 TFSI experiences a common issue where the water pump will fail prematurely. This is due to a plastic compressor wheel within the water pump component that begins to exhibit problems around the 20k mile mark.

A 1.8 TFSI water pump failure will begin as a high pitch squeal from the engine block. You will also notice coolant leaking, with a pool underneath your car’s front end forming. The temperature gauge will also give a high readout as the 1.8 TFSI will be inadequately cooled.

In this case, a new water pump is needed which can be performed at home by owners if required.

Audi Interior
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Thermostat Leakage

Another component in the 1.8 TFSI engine system that leaks coolant is the thermostat housing. This regulates the amount of coolant entering the engine depending on the load and current temperature. The thermostat is vital to ensuring performance is not compromised by overheating.

A problem has been identified by 1.8 TFSI owner that report the housing seal itself stops being water-tight and drips coolant within the engine compartment. This leak will likely not be as significant as a water pump failure and often goes unobserved. Eagle-eyed owners report noticing coolant marks under the bonnet on mountings and around the engine itself. In more severe cases you might notice visible pools of coolant.

It can be tricky with a 1.8 TFSI to determine whether a coolant leak is a water pump or a thermostat so if in doubt consult a trained professional.

Is The TFSI Engine Reliable?

All things considered, the TFSI series of EA888 engines are reliable and have been used successfully by Audi for over a decade. Despite some of the issues above plaguing the engine, most owners report the 1.8 TFSI to be reliable, delivering great fuel economy and more than enough performance for most.

The reliability of the 1.8 TFSI, however, depends largely on the upkeep of the vehicle. In particular, the engine requires oil changes more often than its equivalents. This especially affects Gen 2 variants of the 1.8 TFSI that use thinner piston rings. This has been largely responsible for taking away some of the engine’s shining reputation.

In order to maintain a 1.8 TFSI, oil should be topped up regularly to help prevent wear on the timing chain. Oil and filter changes should be conducted every 10k mile or less. Some owners report 6k as the optimum amount of miles before changes.

Additionally, preventative measures can be taken by replacing spark plugs every 20k miles and having the engine’s intake valves cleared of carbon buildup every 50k miles.

Audi TFSI Interior
Image Credit: Pixabay

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the 1.8 TFSI a good engine?

Considering all combustion engines involve hundreds of different components working in unison, no engine is without its problems. Most of the problems affecting the 1.8 TFSI are on the less severe end of the scale. Overall then, it’s fair to call it a good engine.

How long do 1.8 TFSI engines last?

A 1.8 TFSI should last 150k+ miles. Having been out for 15 years, there are now plenty of owners reporting these engines exceeding 200k miles too. While some owners report no Audi 1.8 TFSI engine problems, most, however, have had to deal with some of the above-mentioned at some point or other.

What sort of oil does the 1.8 TFSI use?

Most cars with the 1.8 TFSI engine will need good quality 5w30 spec engine oil. However, some cars with the engine report in their manual that semi-synthetic 10w40 oil is suitable too. Check your car’s manual or the under-bonnet sticker to discover which oil is best for your vehicle.

Conclusion

Just like its sibling engine the 2.0 TFSI, this 1.8 version has its own share of owner reported problems. A good maintenance schedule is key to reducing the severity and frequency of these issues. That said, overall the 1.8 TFSI has been known to be a reliable and economical engine over the years. This is especially true when compared to direct competitors.

If you are currently having issues with your vehicle an On-board Diagnostic (OBD) scanner will help you diagnose the issue for as little as £25. We have put together a list of The 4 Best OBD-II Scanners for 2023 to help you decide which one best fits your needs.

If you have suffered your own Audi 1.8 TFSI engine problems, please leave us a comment below. Happy motoring!

VW 1.8 TSI Engine Problems: Common Issues & Solutions

Andy Marchant
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0
VW 1.8 TSI Engine Problems: Common Issues & Solutions

In this article, we explain the most common VW 1.8 TSI engine problems and explore some simple solutions.

The four-cylinder VW 1.8 TSI sits as one of Volkswagen’s most well-respected engines. As part of the EA888 family, it was first engineered in 2007 by Audi and has now made its way into a host of other car manufacturers’ vehicles ever since.

Volkswagen’s EA888 engine has seen significant refinements over the years and comes in both 1.8 and 2.0-litre flavours. Drivers particularly enjoy that these petrol engines reach peak power output only a couple of hundred RPMs after reaching peak torque. This means efficiency and speed go hand-in-hand with owners having no complaints about the engine’s performance.

VW Passat at Dealership
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So far there have been 3 generations of the EA888 with the third generation of the 1.8 TSI engine taking the crown as the best VW option on the market.

Despite this glowing reputation, there are VW 1.8 TSI engine problems across all 3 generations. Some are more serious than others which existing and prospective owners should be aware of. Gen 2 is considered the most inferior of the range, suffering from a significant oil leak problem that has tarnished the EA888’s reputation ever since.

Below we’ll discuss the main features of the VW 1.8 TSI to get acquainted with it before diving into the main problems of the engine including symptoms and fixes.

VW Interior
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Engine features of the VW 1.8 TSI – EA888

While there’s plenty to love about the EA888, some of the most significant features include:

Multi-point direct fuel injection

Used to improve fuel efficiency, the third generation of the 1.8 TSI features multi-point fuel injection. This technology allows an exact quantity of fuel to be injected into each cylinder just at the right time. The benefit of this is more direct power when you need it without excessive fuel consumption.

Water-cooled exhaust manifold

In the EA888, the exhaust manifold is integrated into the engine’s cylinder head. This means VWs with the 1.8 TSI engine can use water cooling to lower the temperature of exhaust gases, reducing overall wear on the engine.

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This also has the added effect of improving cold starts and allows the cabin to warm up a lot quicker. As well as this, the EA888 can use a leaner air to fuel mixture, further improving mileage.

Turbocharged

All three generations of the 1.8 TSI are turbocharged with the first and second featuring a KKK K03 turbocharger with an upper-limit boost pressure of 0.6 bar. The third generation went with the IS12 turbo with multiple GTI owners claiming to output 300hp without issue.

Timing Belt
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Which VW Cars have the 1.8 TSI EA888 Engine?

The VW 1.8 TSI engine has been a mainstay of Volkswagen’s lineup since its launch. The models you can find it in 10 models including:

1. VW Jetta Mk5/Sagitar (2006-2011)

2. VW Jetta Mk6 (2010-2018)

3. VW Jetta Mk7 GLI (2018+)

4. VW Passat B6/B7/B8 (2005+)

5. VW Passat CC (2008+)

6. VW Golf GTI Mk5 (2006-2010)

7. VW Golf GTI Mk6 (2009-2014)

8. VW Golf GTI Mk7 (2014-2020)

9. VW Golf R (2014+)

10. Tiguan (2016+)

VW Tiguan 1.8 TSI
Image Credit: Pixabay

Common VW 1.8 TSI engine problems

While drivers have no issue with the VW EA888 1.8 TSI performance and efficiency, it is not considered among the most reliable engines available. There are several notable problems with the EA888 with some considered irreparable and others considered more minor.

Oil Depletion

Affecting the second generation of the EA888 in particular, the engine suffers a reputation as an oil guzzler. The problem appears relatively early into the engine’s life and is by far the biggest complaint that owners have regarding both the 1.8 and 2.0-litre variants of the EA888.

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The main culprit is the thin piston rings featured in Gen 2 models that, fortunately, can be replaced if necessary.

Symptoms: Aside from low oil readings, you will notice oil appearing on the engine and the spark plugs. The also may be blasts of blue smoke from the exhaust.

Solution: While it’s by no means an “easy” fix, replacing the pistons and piston rings in the engine is regarded as the best fix. Most owners go for piston parts from Gen 1 engines which tend to have less trouble with oil consumption.

For the DIY mechanics reading, get your required parts from DIY Car Service Parts. Simply enter your registration to get suitable part recommendations for your specific car make & model.

Car Oil Service
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Water Pump Failure

Not just a problem for the VW 1.8 TSI, water pump failures are a common issue for all vehicles. Nevertheless, the VWs with the EA888 tend to find the plastic compressor wheel fails almost every 20,000 miles on their water pump making it a fairly regular problem.

Symptoms: One of the earliest signs is a high-pitched whine coming from the engine block area. This will be followed by your engine temperature gauge climbing higher and the car’s warning light turning on. You will also notice coolant leaking under your vehicle.

Soulution: A new water pump needs to be installed if you notice these symptoms. This is a repair that can be conducted yourself if you feel comfortable but any garage will be able to conduct this repair job if not.

Ignition Coil Failure

A slightly less common problem that the engine has is ignition coil failures. The ignition coil is used to convert electrical energy from the car’s battery into an ignitable form that allows combustion to occur within the engine.

Symptoms: The main symptom of a faulty ignition coil is your vehicle will simply not start or misfires upon turning the key. Cars with a more modern dash might show a specific warning on the onboard computer or your check engine light will flash. Early signs include a rough turbo at high RPMs as well as at idle. Your engine may also stall irregularly.

Solution: It can be difficult to tell the difference between a faulty ignition coil and failed spark plugs so an expert diagnosis may be needed. In either case, a diagnosis and replacement parts are needed.

Car Engine
Image Credit: Unsplash

Thermostat Housing Leaking

Something that affects Gen 3 models more than previous versions of the EA888 is the thermostat housing leaks engine coolant. This part regulates the flow of coolant depending on the internal temperature of the engine but has been reported to leak regularly by owners.

Symptoms: As with other issues related to engine coolant, you will notice engine temperatures sitting higher than normal. Your engine may eventually overheat entirely and shut down if the problem goes unchecked.

You should look out for leaking coolant within the engine compartment and under the vehicle, as well as low coolant lights.

Solution: If you find the thermostat is the cause of the leak it’s important to replace it promptly. This is not a difficult fix and can be undertaken by those comfortable repairing their own vehicles.

As this involves the engine of the car, however, it’s important the job is done correctly with pressure tests undertaken after work is completed. Professional work is therefore recommended in most cases.

VW 1.8 TSI
Image Credit: Pixabay

Timing Chain Stretch

In Gen 1 and Gen 2 models of the EA888, an issue was identified where the timing chain becomes stretched. The timing chain is an essential transmission component and a stretched one will result in engine failures, errors, and poor performance.

Most owners begin to notice problems after 70,000 miles and the problem is associated with pushing the engine harder than normal for longer periods of time such as daily motorway/freeway driving.

Symptoms: You will likely see a check engine light once the problem has become bad enough to notice. A OBD-II scanner will help you diagnose the issue when your check engine light comes on. You can pick one up for as little as £25. We have put together a list of The 4 Best OBD-II Scanners for 2023 to help you decide which one best fits your needs. One potential issue is that the chain may be skipping excessively as a result of the improper tension. You may also notice small pieces of metal in the oil pan beneath the engine with your vehicle experiencing a rough idle.

If the problem is not caught early, your vehicle will not start at all and could be potentially dangerous if it breaks during high-speed driving.

Solution: This is not an easy fix and should be left to VW engine specialists. Replacing a timing chain is also an expensive job and as it can cost multiple thousands to fix is sometimes the reason for owners selling their vehicles.

VW Golf
Image Credit: Pixabay

Carbon-clogged Intake Valves

While not just a problem for the VW 1.8 TSI, this engine is particularly prone to carbon build-up in its intake valves. Carbon build-up is a natural consequence of fuel combustion with deposits coating the intake valves over time. The EA888 has a reputation for carbon clogging the intake valves more regularly than other engines, however, and owners should take precautions against it.

Symptoms: You may notice a significant loss in fuel economy and engine performance if enough carbon builds up within the intake valves. If the issue becomes bad enough you will experience misfires, stalling, and engine knocking.

Solution: Prevention is the best cure in this case with owners often taking the car into the fast lane of a motorway to “blast” away from the carbon build-up by driving at high RPMs for 20 minutes or more. If carbon build-up is already a problem it can be cleaned manually or by taking to any mechanic who can thoroughly clear out the intake valve blockages.

Air Oil Separator Valve Issues

The Air Oil Separator (also known as the Positive Crankcase Ventilator) allows your vehicle to control the flow of its emissions, routing gases into the engine to be safely burned away.

The EA888 has multiple reports of this part failing however and is often due to failures in the inner workings of the valve such as the rubber diaphragm and springs no longer functioning correctly.

Symptoms: There can be multiple issues with this valve with the most common symptoms involving misfiring and excessive oil consumption. It’s important to get a proper diagnosis at a garage, however, as these are also symptoms of other problems with the VW 1.8 TSI meaning a misdiagnosis is possible.

Solution: Replacement of the PCV is something some owners choose to do themselves. The part is relatively inexpensive but can be tricky to fit if you’ve never done it before. It’s recommended for most people to leave this one to a trained mechanic or engine specialist unless you are experienced with replacing such parts.

VW 1.8 TSI Interior
Image Credit: Unsplash

Is the VW 1.8 TSI EA888 engine reliable?

Despite its reputation, most owners consider the engine to be fairly reliable with well-cared for EA888 engines lasting between 150,000 and 200,000 miles and more.

The engine’s reputation as unreliable largely stems from the Gen 2 models of the VW 1.8 TSI which suffered more extensively from the excessive oil consumption issue. This issue was widespread enough that the entire EA888 range garnered an “unreliable” reputation.

Alongside the timing chain issues, carbon buildup, and leaky parts, the engine’s reputation as unreliable is perhaps not entirely unjustified.

Nevertheless, with an enormous amount of EA888 engines on the road powering fairly powerful cars, it is fair to say the engine is still largely reliable, especially if you have a Gen 3 model. Aside from Gen 2 issues, however, EA888s suffer about the same amount of failures as other engine ranges.

VW 1.8 TSI Maintenance

The best way to look after your 1.8 TSI involves regular oil and filter changes. While your manual will state you should do this once every 10,000 or so miles, most owners have found it necessary to do so every 5-6000 to prevent excessive wear and tear on the inner workings of the engine and keep things running smoothly.

These more regular oil and filter changes are the common denominator amongst owners of cars with the EA888 that are still serviceable beyond 100,000 miles.

You should also include as part of your maintenance routine a check of your spark plugs every 20,000 miles with a multimeter to check they can fire as well as a thorough air intake valve clean to remove carbon buildup every 50-60,000 miles.

VW Golf Interior
Image Credit: Unsplash

1.8 TSI Vs 1.5 TSI

  1. Displacement: The 1.5 TSI has a smaller displacement of 1.5 liters compared to the 1.8 TSI, which has a displacement of 1.8 liters. This means that the 1.8 TSI may provide more power and torque than the 1.5 TSI, but may also be less fuel-efficient.
  2. Turbocharging: Both engines feature turbocharging technology, which can improve power and efficiency. However, the 1.8 TSI produces more boost pressure, resulting in higher performance.
  3. Transmission: The 1.5 TSI is often paired with a six-speed manual or seven-speed dual-clutch automatic transmission, while the 1.8 TSI is usually mated to a six-speed manual or six-speed automatic transmission. This can affect the driving experience and responsiveness of the engine.
  4. Applications: The 1.5 TSI is commonly used in smaller Volkswagen models such as the Golf, while the 1.8 TSI is often found in larger vehicles like the Passat or Tiguan. The specific application of each engine can affect its performance and capabilities.

In summary, the 1.5 TSI and 1.8 TSI engines are both popular options that offer different features and benefits. While the 1.8 TSI may provide more power and torque, the 1.5 TSI is often more fuel-efficient and may be better suited for smaller vehicles or everyday driving. Ultimately, the choice between these engines will depend on your specific needs and preferences.

Frequently Asked Questions

What type of oil should I use with the 1.8 TSI EA888?
Most VW 1.8 TSI engines will require 5W-40 or 5W-30 synthetic oil. Different vehicles will have their own recommendation, however, so it’s important to check your car’s manual. There you can also find out the oil capacity with and without the filter.

Are TSI 1.8 EA888 engines still being made?
Yes, the EA888 is still being manufactured with Volkswagen continuing to optimize the engine.

Did you Know? The latest iteration is known amongst enthusiasts as the Evo4 and will power the 2022 Golf GTI and Golf R.

Conclusion

We hope you have found this article on VW 1.8 TSI engine problems useful.

If you are currently having issues with your vehicle an On-board Diagnostic (OBD) scanner will help you diagnose the issue for as little as £25. We have put together a list of The 4 Best OBD-II Scanners for 2023 to help you decide which one best fits your needs.

If you have suffered your own issues with this powerplant please leave us a comment below. Happy driving!

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