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Hyundai i10 Problems: Common Issues & Solutions

Sophie M
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Hyundai i10 Problems: Common Issues & Solutions

In this article, we will highlight the most common Hyundai i10 problems owners are facing and address commonly asked questions. We will look at the reliability of the model, solutions to common issues, how long an i10 lasts and whether a used model is a good buy. 

The Hyundai i10, initially launched in 2007, has gone through several iterations, with the newest version of the car having launched in 2019. 

The 2019 model is the Korean manufacturers most popular model to date and features a range of safety upgrades in addition to sitting on an all-new platform. This gives it an increase in width as well as a lowered sportier stance.

Despite the changes over the years and a good reputation for reliability, the Hyundai i10 is still known for a number of common problems. 

Is the Hyundai i10 a Good Car To Buy?

Hyundai i10 Interior
Image Credit: Unsplash

Yes, the Hyundai i10 is an excellent car to buy if you are looking for a practical, reliable, and comfortable city car. Even for its size, the latest incarnation has a spacious interior due to a 40mm longer wheelbase. In addition, it has a good-sized boot, so short weekend trips or a big weekly shop are doable.  

The latest model of the Hyundai i10 also has a more aggressive look than preceding models and is easier on the eye. It boasts cutting-edge tech, infotainment and overall is a very smooth drive.

We think it represents great value for money when compared to other cars in its class. Other city competitors such as the Toyota Aygo, Peugeot 108, and Citroen C1 remain great options too if you are shopping around for comparative models.  

Is the Hyundai i10 reliable?

Warning Light
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Hyundai as a brand has consistently ranked high on the reliability table of manufacturers.

Although the Hyundai i10 is a reliable car overall, it’s worth noting the latest model’s European New Car Assessment Programme (NCAP) Score. 

The Euro NCAP is an independent crash-test safety body that analyses and tests new cars’ safety. In 2020, the Hyundai i10 received a measly score of three stars out of five in the Safety Assist category. The safety score was due to issues around the protection of the driver in a side-impact crash situation. 

The car received a four-star rating during the previous i10 model safety testing by Euro NCAP. It lost additional marks due to not having the safety offered as standard. 

Hyundai addressed these concerns by adding a variety of updates to its latest model. These include a Brake Assist System, Autonomous Emergency Braking, Lane Keep Assist with a Lane Departure Warning System, and a Driver Attention Alert. 

The only optional addition is the Intelligent Speed Limit Warning System. 

Since Euro NCAP’s previous test of the Hyundai i10, it has overhauled its rating scheme leading to the overall testing programme being stricter.

Common Problems With The Hyundai i10

Engine
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This i10 is generally a good and reliable steed however, there are a number of issues that Hyundai i10 owners frequently encounter. In particular with the less popular Grand i10 model. 

This doesn’t of course mean you will encounter the issues, but you should at least be aware of them. These problems would be wise to investigate if you are looking to buy a second-hand model.

Clutch Issues

One of the most common problems for Hyundai i10 owners is that the clutch system suffers from wear and tear quickly. This is an issue for a city car. Clutch judder is another particularly annoying common gripe.

More often than not, the clutch pad is the culprit. However, it can also be the weakness in the ropes in the clutch cable and other parts of the clutch system that leads to the overall rapid depletion of the whole clutch system, even when there’s not so many miles on the clock. 

Replacements are easily sourced. When compared to other vehicles, they are not too pricey either.

Headlight Adjustment

A common problem for these models is that the headlight adjustment feature switch tends to become faulty easily. This leads to the headlights becoming non-adjustable and could potentially annoy oncoming traffic. 

Problems Engaging Reverse Gear 

Engaging the reverse gear after a cold start can be an issue. In some models of the i10, the Grand i10 in particular, this problem appears randomly with no apparent rhyme or reason. 

When needing to back your car out of your driveway in the morning to take the kids to school, you won’t be impressed when this decides not to play ball. The reverse gear can become difficult to engage, won’t engage correctly and, in rare instances, not engage at all. 

First Gear Sticking

The i10 is known not to let some motorists get out of first gear. Although Sunday drivers likely won’t notice. This isn’t just annoying, it’s potentially lethal to your gearbox. The issue is caused by a faulty transmission shift solenoid, which will need replacing. 

Starting Problems

An electronic receiver fault on the immobiliser can create a communication problem between the key and immobiliser so the i10 won’t start. 

Issues with Braking

Issues with the braking system, especially the sticking of the rear brake pads, has emerged as a common complaint amongst owners. 

Tests have shown that even though the car does well when it comes to brake disc wear, it can be the opposite for brake pad wear. Failure of the brake pads can be extremely dangerous at high speeds, and i10 owners must look out for this issue. Remember to keep your service schedule up to date and attend the annual MOT if it is over 3 years old. A qualified mechanic should spot potential brake issues with ease. 

Faulty Air Conditioning

Hyundai i10 owners have reported issues with the car’s AC units and problems around cooling, heating, and airflow. 

Several potential causes for these issues seem to be clogged pipes, defective sponge filters, or damaged condenser units. The best way to solve these issues is by fully replacing the system. A re-gas is cheap either since Hyundai uses an environmentally friendly refrigerant which comes at a cost.

Steering Motor issues

The i10s have a tendency to develop steering motor issues. This problem manifests itself as the steering wheel becoming unnaturally light or heavy for brief periods at unpredictable times. Quite often, the primary cause of this issue is a faulty EPS Motor which will need sending off for repair or replacing. 

Interior Trim

Let’s face it, this is a model made down to a price. Trim components like the dashboard can easily get damaged or develop a rattle over time. Look out for any damaged or broken parts if buying a i10 second hand.

Suspension Noise

Noisy and faulty suspensions can negatively impact your driving experience, and this has been a problem for quite a few Hyundai owners. Replacement suspension tends to come with a hefty price tag. 

Rusty Exhaust

Hyundai i10 owners report that the car’s exhaust system is a bit of a rust magnet.  If not taken care of in the long run by getting an anti-rust coating for the exhaust, for example, it can become a real cause for concern.

How long will a Hyundai i10 last?

Interior
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Hyundai’s are known to easily last around 200 -300k miles with few significant issues if they are well taken care of. 

There are, of course, a number of things you can do to ensure your Hyundai i10 lasts as long as possible. These include getting your brakes checked regularly, watching for engine warning signs, ensuring you get regular service from an authorised dealer or reputable garage.

Also, remember that depending on where you live, the climate can dramatically affect the state of your car. For example, your car might be prone to more rust in coastal areas, so consider a non-corrosive coating. 

Which Model Of The Hyundai i10 Is Best?

When looking at the models SE, SE Connect and Premium, the SE is a pretty basic model, so most people spend a bit extra to upgrade to the SE Connect, at least. This gets you Hyundai’s 8.0in touchscreen infotainment systems with the reversing camera as well as smartphone mirroring. 

The car’s entry-level 1.0-litre three-cylinder petrol engine makes it an agile and smooth ride around town. However, the 1.2-litre engine will provide you with a bit more power on a longer run.

Overall, your unique needs and budget will dictate what model will be the best one for you. 

However, you could go by the following rough guidelines about which model would be a good fit: 

  • The 1.0 S is the best choice for economy
  • The Grand 1.0 SE is the best for family 
  • The 1.2 Premium SE is best for fun 

Should You Buy a Used Hyundai i10?

Hyundai i10

The Hyundai i10 represents exceptional value and is a great used buy. However, when purchasing a used Hyundai i10, it’s critical that you pay special attention to the list of the most common problems we described earlier. 

You can use the following summary of issues as a shorthand to ensure you buy the right car. (In addition to the other usual tests you should do when buying any used motor).

  • Check the functionality of the headlight adjustment on all levels.
  • To determine if the clutch is worn, check its functioning.
  • Assess the braking performance at various speeds. 
  • Check the steering functionality thoroughly to identify problems.
  • Ensure the AC is working correctly on all settings.
  • Check the dash and trim for damage and rattles.
  • Check the suspension for unusual noises on rough roads and bumps.
  • Examine for rust on the exhaust system, paying particular attention to the catalytic converter.
  • Look for signs of accident damage by examining the car’s overall condition.

Since the Hyundai is such a popular model, there will likely be a selection of vehicles up for resale, making it more likely you can find a great deal on the specification you prefer.

Therefore, it’s a good idea to take a professional mechanic with you (or get a RAC report)  to check the car’s condition thoroughly. A trained mechanic will be able to tell you whether the car’s current odometer reading is on par with the car’s condition. A full-service history and checking online MOT records will help authenticate mileage further.

What Are Glow Plugs & When To Replace Them

Andy Marchant
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What Are Glow Plugs & When To Replace Them

In this article, we will explain everything you need to know about glow plugs and when a change may be required. Use this ultimate guide for troubleshooting glow plug problems and finding the best solution for a replacement. If you have good maintenance skills, follow our in depth guide on how to extract and replace worn glow plugs. 

Bosch Glow Plug
Photo Credit: Bosch

What is a Glow Plug?

A glow plug is a cylindrical component containing a heating element at one end and an electrical connection at the other. The body consists of a central electrode and regulation coil (the reason behind the coil-shaped amber warning light). Below the connectors is a hexagonal nut used for tightening and unscrewing them into place.

When an electrical current is passed through the tip it will emit visible light similar to that of a hair dryer. This warmth is used to significantly heat diesel before ignition making the vehicle easier to start and aid with combustion when the engine block is cold. The glow plug filaments themselves are made of durable rare metals such as iridium or platinum.

Is a glow plug a spark plug?

Despite the similar sounding name, a glow plugs and spark plugs work in very different ways. Contrary to its diesel warming counterpart, the spark plug is used to directly ignite the fuel/air mixture. It will use electricity from the battery to create an electrical charge in the combustion cylinder. Petroleum is much easier to combust than its oily diesel cousin. The lifespan of a spark plug is generally much shorter due to constant use and contamination from combustion.

How does a glow plug work?

Just how does a glow plug function exactly? As you turn the key, your glow plugs will heat up significantly to over 800 degrees, that’s hot enough to emit visible light. Ceramic tipped glow plugs can get to a whopping 1300 degrees. Diesel and compressed air will then be injected into the combustion chamber (or pre-chamber depending on the engine type) where the glow plug tips will effectively heat the fuel. This mixture will ignite under pressure and the force created will drive the pistons.

Types of Glow Plugs

Older vehicles used the “thermostart” variety which was considerably less effective than the modern “in cylinder” variety. If you have ever driven an older diesel car you may remember “glowing”. This is where you would turn the key partially and wait for the glow plugs to preheat which was indicated by waiting for the amber glow plug indicator light to disappear.

The modern “in cylinder” type will have a glow plug for each cylinder making the process quicker and more effective. This will either be in the combustion chamber for direct injection engines or in the pre-chamber for pre-chambered engines. Once the cylinder is up to temperature (usually within a minute or so) any subsequent starts will be quicker and more efficient.

Symptoms of Bad Glow Plugs

Engine Maintenance
Image Credit: Unsplash

Difficulty starting

Taking a few extra turns or difficulty starting will be the most common symptom of worn glow plugs. This difficulty will become more prevalent as the air temperature drops during the winter months. Once the engine is warm, any attempts to restart the engine may happen far quicker. Push-button start diesel vehicles can have a small delay between pressing and ignition, this is by design and a normal function.

Glow plugs warning light

Some cars will have an inbuilt sensor to tell the driver when the glow plugs are no longer functioning correctly. This will be in the form of a flashing yellow light in the shape of a coil. Other cars may have a warning message on the digital display.

Smoke

Plumes of exhaust smoke are a tell-tale sign of glow plug issues, in particular shortly after ignition. This is because the fuel isn’t hot enough to combust properly, however smoke can be a sign of other engine problems. Take a look at our article on Diesel Exhaust Smoke if you are having prolonged issues with this.

Misfire

As the engine is trying to combust colder diesel & you may notice juddering under acceleration with a decrease in power.

DPF Problems

You may notice a DPF warning light appearing. A DPF regeneration will halted when glow plug are not functioning correctly. Glow plugs are required to pulse with significant heat during a regeneration. Prolonged glow plug problems can cause serious damage to this expensive component. Anything DPF related is worth diagnosing straight away.

Decreased MPG

Like a variety of diesel engine components, if the glow plugs are not functioning properly, you can expect a drop in MPG. With the price of diesel these days every mile per gallon counts.

When should I replace my glow plugs?

Glow plugs are incredibly hardy components, with the expected lifespan being 90,000 miles. Lower quality brands or frequent cold weather starts may impact the durability greatly. Check the vehicle handbook to see when the manufacturers recommended intervals are. Some service schedules will include glow plugs as part of routine maintenance when the vehicle reaches a certain age or mileage.  Likewise, if you get any of the symptoms above it is worth troubleshooting or taking into a garage for diagnostics.

How To Change The Glow Plugs

Mechanic
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With a basic grasp of vehicle maintenance, you can change worn glow plugs yourself. However, it’s best left to an experienced mechanic. Over time the heat and pressure can wear or fuse the thread making them difficult to remove. If not undertaken carefully, the glow plug can snap leaving an exceptionally time consuming and costly job.

Competent with vehicle maintenance? Follow our guide for changing your glow plugs:

  • Firstly, locate the glow plugs and find how many you need to change, as a rule of thumb there is one for each cylinder but there could be fewer dependent on the model and engine type.
  • Find the correct glow plug for the engine. You don’t have to replace them with OEM spec components, there will be more cost-effective options open to you. However, using a respected brand such as Bosch is generally good practice. A higher quality replacement can reduce knocking, warm up faster and have better durability.
  • Soak the thread with WD40 or similar penetrating lubricant for at least a few days. This will slowly soak deep down into the thread making extraction easier and reducing the chances of snapping.
  • Remove the electrical connectors
  • With an extended torque wrench CAREFULLY apply pressure and slowly unscrew the glow plugs.
  • Double-check the glow plug specifications are correct for the engine. (they can cause damage if not a compatible size or voltage)
  • Add a little copper grease to the thread of the glow plug. This will prevent water from seeping through in the years to come.
  • Screw-in partly by hand if reachable to prevent cross-threading.
  • Set your torque wrench to the required setting and screw it into place. The correct torque settings are usually 8 – 10 NM.
  • Reconnect the electrical connectors.
  • Fire it up, enjoy efficient starting and improved MPG.

Conclusion

Whether you are having glow plug trouble or experiencing similar symptoms, it is always worth troubleshooting or taking into a garage. Getting annoying glow plug issues fixed early can prevent bigger problems in the future particularly with your DPF.

We hope that you have found this guide informative. If you have experienced your own glow plug problems please comment below or share via social media.

Does E10 Fuel Damage Engines? Ultimate Guide

Sophie M
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Does E10 Fuel Damage Engines? Ultimate Guide

Does E10 fuel damage engines? In this ultimate guide, we will look at what E10 Fuel is, the damage it can cause and if your car is compatible with the latest petrol variant. 

The concerns surrounding global warming have been present for decades but in recent years it is becoming increasingly obvious that in order to take better care of our planet, we need to make changes.

In an effort to cut back on car emissions and ensure that our cars are more eco-friendly, many governments around the world have already introduced e10 fuel as a replacement for the current standard, E5. 

In the U.S, E10 has been used since 1990 and makes up the vast majority of petrol sold in the country. As of September 2021, the UK also began introducing E10 with the goal of making it the new standard.

However, about 5% of petrol cars are not compatible with the new fuel due to the increased levels of ethanol in E10. Read on as we deconstruct the nature of E10 fuel and car compatibility. But most importantly, does E10 fuel damage engines or can it be safe to use regularly?

What Is E10 Fuel Exactly?

E10 Fuel
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The standard petrol type in the UK up until September 2021 was E5, a petrol that contained 5% renewable ethanol. E10, as its acronym suggests, contains 10% renewable ethanol made from materials including sugars, low-grade grains, and waste wood. 

Ethanol is a fuel that absorbs excess CO2. Therefore, when petrol is blended with 10% instead of 5% ethanol, more CO2 is absorbed, thereby reducing the amount of emissions produced by cars. 

To be precise, 750,000 metric tonnes of emissions can be averted yearly with this switch (that’s equivalent to taking about 350,000 cars off the roads). E10 petrol is associated mainly with improving overall CO2 emissions. 

While E10 has many benefits for the environment, which is a great thing, there are some instances where this type of petrol should be avoided.

What Damage Can E10 Fuel Cause?

Engine Maintenance
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So, does E10 fuel damage engines? About 95% of petrol cars are compatible with E10 petrol. Cars manufactured in 2011 and onwards have been manufactured to be compatible with E10. In these cars and also many others, E10 fuel is completely safe to use. 

Countries like the U.S., Canada, Australia, France, and Germany, among others, have been using E10 fuel for some time now. 

However, there are a number of cars that are incompatible with E10 petrol, especially older vehicles. 

Cars manufactured before 2002, especially those with smaller engines, have reported some problems with using E10 fuel. Due to its higher concentration in ethanol, which is an alcohol, there are instances where the engines in older cars aren’t built to sustain alcohol and therefore experience corrosion. 

Additionally, if water enters the tank and mixes with the ethanol, this mixture separates from the fuel and sinks to the bottom of the tank – if you ever bring yourself to driving your car way down low on reserve, that mixture enters the engine and does no good at all. 

Using E10 petrol for these older cars is not advisable however you drive them as the increased ethanol has proven to be corrosive to gaskets, metals, plastics, rubber parts, and seals. 

This could cause engine damage in older vehicles by dislodging deposits and causing blockages. In order to avoid engine damage, these cars should continue using E5 fuel. 

Which Cars Are Not Compatible With E10 Fuel? 

E10 Fuel Petrol Station
Image Credit: Unsplash

It should go without saying that diesel and electric cars are not compatible with E10 petrol. 

However, vintage cars also can’t deal with the eco-friendly stuff. However, when have these classics ever been friendly when it comes to fuel or indeed anything else? These beauties are to be admired and to be lusted after, not utilitarian vehicles to take Greta Thunberg to the next climate conference. 

It is not just classics that pose an issue. There are some specific models of cars made in the early 2000s and mopeds with an engine of 50cc and under that are also not compatible with E10. 

The UK government has created an online tool where you can check the compatibility of your vehicle with E10 by searching its manufacturer on the list. 

If you do not see your model listed, it is advised that you check your vehicle’s manual, as well as inside the fuel filler cap. If you are still unsure whether your car is compatible, it is advised that you use E5 petrol. 

Overall, there are definitely risks for specific models of cars using E10. However, the vast majority of petrol vehicles on the road should find no problem with it. 

What Happens If You Mix E10 Petrol With E5?

It is perfectly acceptable to mix the two types of fuels together, as long as your car is compatible with E10. Mixing E10 with regular or premium unleaded is allowed and should not cause any damage to your engine. 

It is, however, advisable to stick to E10 if and where it is available in order to retain the integrity of ethanol present in the fuel. 

What Happens If You Put E10 Into an Uncompliant Car?

If you’ve already put E10 petrol in your car and then suddenly realise, to your great dismay, that it is not compatible with your vehicle, then whatever you do, don’t panic!

Filling your tank with E10 once should not cause any major problems with your engine or vehicle. You do not need to drain your tank, as is the case if putting petrol in a diesel tank or vice versa. 

Next time you are at the petrol station just make sure you fill your car with E5 petrol. Crisis averted!

If you fill your incompatible tank with E10 consistently, there may be serious risks to your vehicle’s engine in the long run. It is not recommended to continue using E10 over a long period of time if your vehicle is not on the list of compatible vehicles outlined by the government. 

Does E10 Affect Performance?

E10 Engine Performance
Image Credit: Unsplash

Overall, E10 does not affect the performance of your car. The UK government does report, however, that there may be a 1% decrease in fuel economy. In comparison to driving style methods and driving with tyres that are under-inflated, this number is very low. 

However, smaller-engined cars manufactured before 2002 have reported that they are filling up more often, thereby defeating the fuel-economy purpose of a small-engined car.  

How Do You Ensure Maximum Fuel Economy?

Although E10 fuel does carry the possibility of decreasing your fuel economy by 1%, there are far worse culprits in this arena. In order to ensure maximum fuel economy there are a couple of things you can remember:

Don’t Idle

Idling for too long is not only illegal but it also drains considerable fuel from your car. Make sure you are never idling for longer than a few minutes at a time. 

Check Your Tires

Tires that are not properly inflated are the most common way to lose out on fuel economy. Make sure you are checking your tire pressure monthly.

Keep the Momentum

When driving, try not to be starting and stopping too much. Driving smoothly and keeping the momentum preserves fuel. I know this is easier said than done in some places but… try.

Don’t Keep Your Car Packed

Remove all unnecessary belongings from your car. The heavier your car, the more fuel it uses to run. Take that gym bag with all your heavy equipment out when you can or any other junk in your boot! If you want to go on a diet to go green, that’s entirely up to you.

Service Your Vehicle Regularly

Keeping on top of your service schedule is a must for fuel-efficiency. A simple oil, oil filter and fuel filter change known as an interim service can be enough to keep your engine running at optimal MPG.

FAQs

Does E10 Fuel Damage Engines
Image Credit: Unsplash

When is E10 Coming Out in the UK?

E10 was officially introduced as the standard grade of petrol in the UK in September 2021 and is already available at most petrol stations in England, Scotland and Wales.

It is expected to come to Northern Ireland in the early months of 2022, depending on legislative approval. 

It is possible that some rural petrol stations may only have access to either E5 or E10 fuel. 

What Does The E10 Label Look Like? 

Spotting E10 fuel at your local petrol station is simple! The label is a simple circle with E10 written in the middle – it looks exactly like the E5 symbol. It is located on both the nozzle and the petrol dispenser.

Cars that are manufactured from 2019 and onwards should also have the E10 label close to their filler cap.

Does Using E10 Fuel Affect Your Ability to Drive in Ultra-Low Emission or Clean Air Zones?

Your eligibility to drive in ultra-low emission zones or clean air zones has nothing to do with whether you use E10 fuel or not. It is determined by your car’s Euro emissions standard. You may still be required to pay to enter one of these zones regardless of your fuel use.  

Conclusion 

E10 fuel
Image Credit: Unsplash

It may sound like a big and scary change, but E10 fuel has been around in many countries for decades and its use in the UK should be just as smooth. 

Does E10 fuel damage engines? When picking which fuel to use in your car, it is best to consult your vehicle manual, fuel filler cap, and the UK government’s online tool in order to determine whether or not it is compatible. 

Although E10 is now the standard grade of petrol, E5 will still be available at most petrol stations alongside E10, but it is slowly transitioning to only be offered in the ‘super’ grade. As such, E10 fuel will become a more cost-effective and popular option for drivers.    

 

 

  

 

 

How Long Does A Car Service Take? Costs & What’s Included

Sophie M
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How Long Does A Car Service Take? Costs & What’s Included

Any car owner should know that the easiest and most effective way to keep your vehicle in the best of health is to treat it with TLC. By maintaining it well and getting it serviced on a regular basis you can prevent bigger issues from occuring. In this article, we explain how long does a car service take, plus the costs and what is involved. 

Reasons To Get Your Car Serviced Regularly

Car Oil Service
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It may feel like a big hassle and a cost you could be doing without, but a service will save you money in the long run. Your engine will run more efficiently after clogged air filters, worn spark plugs and old engine oil are replaced, all improving your performance and MPG.

What’s more, many car warranties actually require you to regularly service your vehicle in order to continue your coverage. As such, it is very important to keep your car on a regular service schedule in order to prevent voiding your guarantee. Often, they will also demand you have the car serviced at its approved dealers only, who usually charge a premium for the privilege.  

Another reason to maintain a good service record is to aid the desirability of your car on the resale market. Owners who can prove that their vehicle has been regularly serviced will have a much easier time selling, and commanding higher prices than those who cannot. 

This higher resale value will not apply if an owner has serviced and maintained their own vehicle, even if they are very knowledgeable about mechanics. The service records are important to add this equity (and/or not voiding the manufacturer’s warranty) to your car.

Getting your vehicle serviced is a simple, quick task that is relatively inexpensive, especially when compared to the money it can save you further in the future. However, it’s not all about money, it can also prevent bigger mechanical inconveniences further down the road. An MOT does not check everything. There are engine maintenance issues best addressed by a good service schedule. 

How Often Should You Service Your Car?

Car Service
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It is not just a case of how often you should get a service, it is also what kind of service. The most basic service should be done every 6,000 miles or every six months, whichever comes sooner. More extensive services should be done on an annual basis.

  • Interim Service – after 6,000 miles, or every six months
  • Full Service – after 12,000 miles, or every twelve months
  • Major Service – after 24,000 miles, or every two years

These inervals are only an average, it’s best to check your handbook or service guide to see when your specific model’s intervals are.   

What is Included in a Car Service?

Car Oil Filter
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The three main kinds of services will offer different levels of checks. Let’s take a look at what they typically cover (however, all garages differ and you should check what you get for your money)

Interim Service

An interim service includes checking all the most important components of the car needed to keep it running smoothly on a daily basis. Car owners can also expect a garage to check for any external damage and assess whether their vehicle has any of the problems that regularly crop up. The main part of a service is an oil and filter change. This involves draining and replacing old, dirty engine oil and replacing filters. For most interim services, this will only be the oil filter however the air and cabin filter may also be changed if needed. 

A garage will also check all areas that often need to be tuned or topped up.  Among the many common things it checks are:

  • Brakes 
  • Lights
  • Clutch
  • Discs
  • Exhaust
  • Battery  
  • Steering 
  • Suspension
  • Spark plugs / glow plugs
  • Tyres
  • Drive Belt

Regarding the last on the list, tyres – maintaining good tyre pressure will greatly increase the longevity of your tyres. Furthermore, experts say up to 20% of your car’s energy consumption relates to its tyres. That is a lot of cost-savings if you do a lot of miles given the cost of petrol these days.

The garage will usually check a few other, smaller things during an interim check-up, such as the air-conditioning, windshield wipers, and the windscreen. If you own an electric car, the mechanic will also check the charging port and connectors.

Full Service

Basically, this is an in-depth examination of any issues your car might have, which may not have been noticed by you or the garage during the interim service.

When the garage performs a full service, they will look over all of the things that are usually covered in an interim service, but they will also include some very important items that are not covered including repacking the wheel bearings, topping up all fluids, checking the transmission oils, and examining the general safety of the vehicle. 

Major Service

In a major service, you get everything that a full service does, but in greater detail, so that nothing is overlooked.  As part of a major service, all the components of your vehicle will be inspected, as well as the health of your engine.

How Much is a Car Service?

Engine Maintenance
Image Credit: Unsplash

As a ballpark figure, an interim service will cost somewhere between £75 to £125, and a full service somewhere between £150 – £250.  

How much it costs to get a car serviced does depend on its make, model, age and general condition, as well as whereabouts you are situated in the country.  A car will generally be more expensive to get serviced in central London than it will in Darlington, for example.

This price is obviously only for the service, and it does not include any additional parts or repairs that your vehicle might require.  You should note that not all garages will offer the same number of checks in any particular kind of service.

The service cost will be fixed for cars still under warranty, and you should stick to the manufacturer’s recommended repair plan so you do not void it.

As a rule of thumb, small vehicles with engines smaller than 2.0 litres will have lower servicing costs than larger cars. The servicing of performance cars, electric vehicles, and plug-in hybrids, on the other hand, can be quite expensive if specialist diagnostic equipment is needed.

The more common your car is, the better: popular little cars like the Ford Fiesta will cost less to get serviced as they have cheap parts that are readily available, do not usually get expensive faults, and are quicker and easier to repair when there are issues.

Many garages will give discounts if you arrange your service at the same time as when you get an MOT. As both should be done on an annual basis, it’s a good idea to get both done at the same time. It will save you time and money and is easier to remember to do.

How Long Does A Car Service Take? 

How long a car service takes will depend on a few different factors, including the age and model of your car, how often it has been serviced before, as well as the particular type of service you have requested.

The types of service include an interim service, full service and a major service. Many garages will offer things like “Winter Health Checks”, which are essentially a basic service. 

You should bear in mind that some garages will not get to start work on your car as soon as you drop it off, which may make it appear the service is taking longer than it actually does.

In the case of a small service, you will usually get your car back in 2 – 3 hours

Older models can take longer and will often require a far more thorough examination. This will likely extend the length of your garage visit by a couple of hours, but it is more than worth it in order to ensure your vehicle is in tip-top condition.

Your car could stay in the garage for longer than a day if there are complex issues that the mechanic needs to look into. With older or less common cars, parts, even for servicing, can be an issue and may need to be ordered. Electric vehicles and hybrids can add additional time still.

Conclusion

Audi 2.0 TFSI Engine
Image Credit: Unsplash

Although it is not always cheap to have your car properly and regularly serviced, it is important to consider the many future expenses that a good service record can prevent. Often, large and expensive problems will start out as relatively minor issues.  More often than not, these can be easily caught by a mechanic if your car is being regularly assessed. 

There is no doubt that regular servicing extends the life of your vehicle and increases its functionality.  It’s important to keep your car in good condition, even if you don’t plan on selling it. Keeping your car regularly serviced means you will keep it running for much longer, and you will be kinder to the planet and your pocket as you will be using less fuel.

Audi 2.0 TFSI Engine Problems: Common Issues Explained

Joseph Law
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0
Audi 2.0 TFSI Engine Problems: Common Issues Explained

In this article, we will highlight some of the most common Audi 2.0 TFSI engine problems. The Audi 2.0 TFSI engine is available in most of the Audi range and is widely used in the A3, A4, A5, A6  and TT models. It is a turbocharged, fuel injected petrol engine. Capable of delivering between 150 to 250 hp depending on the model. Hopefully, we can go some way in addressing your existing Audi 2.0 TFSI engine problems, or highlight issues before you buy.

TFSI stands for “Turbo Fuel Stratified Injection”. It shares many similarities with other fuel injected petrol engines. The FSI designation describes the location of fuel injection. It is the only designation Audi and VW use to denote the petrol engine versions of their cars. 

Specifically, it is injected as a ‘stratified charge’ meaning the mixture is richer at lower RPMs. This also means less fuel comes into contact with the cylinder walls and is instead directed at the spark plug. The result is an increase in fuel efficiency, and power. 

Is the Audi 2.0 TFSI Engine Reliable?

Audi A5 Gearbox Problems
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Overall we would say, yes! The 2.0 TFSI engine has been used in many different models in multiple continents and for many years, it’s clear it must be at least somewhat reliable. 

However, whether it is reliable when compared to its competition is another matter. The Warranty index takes its data from over 50,000 warranty direct policies and collates the data. 

Top 4 Car Diagnostic Tools that Save You Money on Repairs

The current top 100 list contains only 2 cars made by Audi. Both of these are available with the 2.0 TFSI engine but no specifics are given. Not only this but the highest placing Audi is the TT, which comes in at 44th most reliable.

The 2.0 TFSI engine is generally offered in medium to large vehicles in the Audi range, such as the A3, A4, A5 and A6.  These cars are in direct competition with vehicles such as the Mercedes C & E Class and the BMW saloon range.

Is the Audi 2.0 TFSI a Good Engine?

Engine Maintenance
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Audi has been developing engines for over 50 years. They are one of the most technologically advanced manufacturers on the market. They are innovators as well, with many firsts including making the first 4WD rally car, the Audi Quattro. 

It’s safe to say then that they know how to develop an engine, but this doesn’t necessarily mean that the engines they make are the best on the market. There are some engines that are famed for reliability. But some are infamous for their poor design or build quality.

The Audi 2.0 TFSI cannot be placed in either of these groups, with cars reaching well over 150,000 miles with basic maintenance, the engine cannot be considered bad!

It may be possible to buy a superior engine, however. If the performance and efficiency gains of the turbocharged engine is not the most critical features, there are better options. 

In terms of other Audi options, their range of diesel engines is often regarded as superior. The 2.0 TDI is a relative of the 1.9 PD engine that is legendary for reliability. That said, modern diesel engines are just as complicated as the turbocharged petrol engines.

The petrol cars do have the advantage over the diesels for certain uses, such as lower mileage and short journeys. Diesels can easily suffer from DPF blocking issues if certain conditions are not met when driving, such as engine operating temperature.

Can the TFSI engine be troublesome?

Audi Interior
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As is often the case with German manufacturers, the Audi TFSI engines are very technologically advanced. The FSI injection system yielded new improvements in the efficiency and power that can be achieved from a relatively small petrol engine.

The problem with extremely advanced technology is that it often requires high maintenance. This can be an issue if the drivers or owners do not keep up with regular servicing. Neglect can lead to problems with complex systems such as within oil driven mechanisms such as hydraulic valve lifters. 

Other Audi 2.0 TFSI engine problems include timing chain failures, engine oil consumption and Turbo seal and bearing issues. We will discuss these later on in the article.

Top 4 Car Diagnostic Tools that Save You Money on Repairs

Whilst these issue do not necessarily mean the engine is bad. But it could be considered more high maintenance and therefore more susceptible to failure than other engines. This said, it does offer lots of benefits over less advanced engines in power and fuel efficiency. 

How Long do Audi 2.0 Turbos Last?

Turbochargers force air into the engine, enabling a more efficient mixture of fuel and air to be ignited. They are also used to increase the overall fuel and air intake, increasing the power output. 

Turbos have a turbine wheel and a compressor. The turbine is spun using the hot exhaust gasses. This is then used to compress the intake air on the compressor side. Due to the nature of the high heat and pressures, and the extremely high RPM of the turbine, the seals and bearings are under extreme load. 

Some drivers have reported premature turbo failure, mainly through failed turbo seals. Turbos can often be reconditioned, if the failure is recognised early. If not though, the seals can cause the entire turbine housing to need replacement. In some extreme cases, the turbo can fail catastrophically and deposit shrapnel into the engine, virtually destroying it. 

Top 4 Car Diagnostic Tools that Save You Money on Repairs

Turbo seal failure is most recognisable by an increase in oil consumption, and a tell-tale blue smoke from the exhaust. This is indicative of many sources of oil-burning including turbo seals, worn piston rings and worn valve seats. 

Generally, when buying a turbo car, it is best to seek out all the service history. Good quality oil, and frequent oil changes will help the turbo seals and bearings to last longer. Poor service history is a sign that the car has not been well looked after, and oil changes are an easy thing to overlook for many owners.

Amazon can be one of the easiest places to stock up on your motor oil. Order some good quality oil now to ensure you are not caught slacking with your car maintenance regime.

For the DIY mechanics reading, get your required parts from DIY Car Service Parts. Simply enter your registration to get suitable part recommendations for your specific car make & model.

Audi 2.0 TFSI Timing Chain Issues

Engine block and timing chain
Image Credit: Pixabay

Timing chains are used to synchronise the timing of the camshafts to the engine crankshaft. Timing chains are generally considered to be the far superior alternative to timing belts. Many manufacturers state they will last the entire lifetime of the car.

This has not been the case however with owners of some Audi 2.0 TFSI cars. From 2008 through to 2012, there have been multiple recalls a year for timing chain issues. Some have caused catastrophic damage to the engine. In these cases, an entire engine replacement is most likely. 

If this work is not being done under warranty, expect to pay between £7,000 and £10,000 for a new engine fitted. 

Whilst Audi has recognised this issue and recalled and fixed vehicles affected by it, there are still vehicle owners that do not feel the manufacturer has satisfactorily addressed the issues.

One instance is of owners of 2013 onwards cars, that have seen the exact same issues as the previous engines but had no offer of resolution.

Do Audi TFSI Engines Burn Oil?

Another common issue reported by Audi owners is excessive oil consumption. This is something not formally addressed by Audi themselves, but is reported on many online forums.

The main culprit for oil consumption is worn or damaged piston rings. Piston Rings seal the pistons to the cylinder walls. This is both to contain the pressure of ignition and to prevent oil from entering the combustion chamber from the crankcase.

Worn piston rings can be caused by either damaged cylinder walls, or the use of substandard quality piston rings from the factory. Piston rings do not need to be damaged heavily to allow oil past and into the combustion chamber. 

How to Tell if my 2.0 TFSI Engine is Burning Oil

When accelerating, blue smoke will be present from the exhaust, if the piston rings are worn. Vehicle owners should be very aware of the issues this can cause, namely the engine running out of oil. 

There are not really any easy fixes for worn piston rings, the only real solution is to replace them. This involves disassembling most of the engine, including removing the head and sump. The bottom caps on the connection rods can then be removed, and the pistons lifted out of the top of the engine. 

Conclusion

Audi 2.0 TFSI Engine TT
Photo Credit: Unsplash

Many of the issues discussed above are not formally addressed by Audi as causes for recall. This will mean difficulty in getting the manufacturer to repair it unless under warranty. When buying an Audi 2.0 TFSI car, it is imperative to check service history, especially frequent oil changes and oil filter changes. 

When viewing used vehicles, check for blue smoke from the exhaust, especially during acceleration. It is unlikely the seller will disclose if the car is using oil excessively, so a check of the dipstick is as much as can be done.

If you are currently having issues with your vehicle an On-board Diagnostic (OBD) scanner will help you diagnose the issue for as little as £25. We have put together a list of The 4 Best OBD-II Scanners for 2023 to help you decide which one best fits your needs.

Thank you for reading our article on Audi 2.0 TFSI engine problems. If you have found it useful please share or drop us a comment.

Diesel Exhaust Smoke: Causes & Solutions

Justin Bainbridge
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0
Diesel Exhaust Smoke: Causes & Solutions

Diesel engines have been refined vastly since their agricultural beginnings, but older or faulty cars will produce exhaust smoke. In this article we will address the symptoms, causes and solutions of diesel exhaust smoke and look in to what the various colours of smoke can tell you. We will look at black, blue and white smoke commonly expelled from diesel exhausts. This guide will help you discover if this exhaust smoke is normal or a cause for concern.

What Causes Black Exhaust Smoke?

The most common diesel exhaust smoke we see is black, but what causes this?

Black smoke is formed when there is too much fuel for combustion, this causes an imbalance in the air-fuel ratio of the engine. This is known as fuel-rich combustion, it occurs when there is not enough air to completely burn the fuel and excess fuel is left unburned. 

This fuel has still been exposed to the high temperature and pressure environment of the combustion chamber. These conditions cause carbon to form and this is what gives the smoke its black colour.

6 of the most common causes of black smoke are:

  • DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter)
  • Dirty air filter
  • Turbocharged engine with a boost leak or faulty turbo
  • Build-up of carbon deposits
  • Faulty injectors
  • EGR Valve fault

Twin Exhaust
Image Credit: Unsplash

Could black smoke be caused by my DPF?

A diesel engine blowing black smoke could mean a few things.

Firstly if the car is an older car without a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) fitted to the exhaust system. Then a small amount of black smoke is normal.

However, a lot of Black smoke would indicate a problem with either the intake or fuelling system.

If the car is newer and fitted with a DPF then there should be no visible black smoke from the exhaust. So if you can see a lot of Black smoke then there is a problem.

This thick black smoke will be more present under heavy loads and acceleration, it will also have a sooty smell. If the car is smoking a lot, then there will also be some soot deposited onto the rear of the car. Most visible on the rear bumper area & around the exhaust pipe.

Diesel Smoke
Photo Credit: Unsplash

How do I know if my air filter is dirty?

A dirty air filter causes the engine to struggle with taking in air efficiently.

If the engine can’t get enough air then this will cause the fuel-rich combustion we have been talking about. A tell tale symptom of a dirty air filter is a loss in power and performance combined with black smoke. 

The air filter is the first thing you should check and is the easiest cause of diesel smoke to fix. Simply replace the filter with a new, clean filter. If this was the cause of the diesel smoke, the car will stop producing excessive smoke once it’s replaced.

Air filter
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How do I know if I have a boost leak?

On a turbocharged diesel engine, you have boost pipes and an intercooler connecting the turbo output to the intake manifold. This is to cool down the pressurised air to create more efficient combustion. It’s an airtight system and any leaks here can cause black diesel smoke.

This is because the engine is still accounting for the full amount of air being sent to the intake manifold. So it supplies the engine with the necessary fuel to burn properly. However, if some of the air is escaping before entering the combustion chamber due to a boost leak. There will be a fuel-rich environment in the combustion chamber.

Along with Black smoke, other symptoms will be a loss of power, and you may also hear a loud whooshing sound from the engine bay.

When checking the boost pipes you should look for any disconnections or splits in these pipes. Getting a garage to check this system can help you to find the problem and fix it. If no fault is found with this system then it can be eliminated as a potential cause of black diesel smoke.

What are the signs of a bad turbo on a diesel engine?

A faulty turbocharger will not be generating pressurised air to supply to the engine. The turbochargers job is to force more air into the intake manifold so that more fuel can also be injected and therefore create more power. If the turbo fails it will not be able to pressurise the air going into the intake manifold.

In the best case, the turbo will just stop producing boost and this will cause black diesel smoke. This is because the engine is set up to inject the correct amount of fuel for the increased air supply from the turbo. This will give us a fuel-rich environment and cause black diesel smoke.

In the worst case, the turbo will fail and fall apart and some of its components can get sucked into the engine and cause a catastrophic engine failure. 

Turbo diesel
Photo Credit: Unsplash

Does my diesel engine have carbon build-up?

Carbon build-up on diesel engines is normal in small amounts, sometimes carbon can accumulate to excessive amounts. The main reasons are poor servicing, poor quality fuel or it has been driven excessively at a low rev range. 

Using a fuel additive will help to clear out the carbon built up and also help to clean other components such as injectors. Using more of the engines rev range will also prevent carbon from building up. Taking the car for a more spirited drive where you rev the engine harder can help to blow out this built-up carbon and can restore lost performance caused by it. There will be more black diesel smoke as you do this, but once the engine is cleared it should stop producing smoke from the exhaust.

How do I know if my diesel injectors are bad?

Faulty injectors cause diesel smoke if they are injecting too much fuel. If the injector supplies too much fuel when it is spraying then this will cause a fuel-rich environment, and thus, cause black diesel smoke from the exhaust. Replacing the injectors will solve this issue and will also prevent further engine damage from being caused. An injector cleaning fuel additive might be worth a try first. 

Can a bad EGR valve cause Black smoke?

An EGR valve that is stuck open can cause black diesel smoke. This is because the exhaust gasses are constantly being recirculated into the engine, causing a low oxygen environment.

This causes incomplete combustion of the fuel and this gives us the black smoke. The EGR valve may be stuck open due to excessive carbon build-up or mechanical failure. Removing and cleaning the valve may solve the issue. However, it is better to replace the EGR with a new unit. This will solve the problem of excessive black diesel smoke.

Diesel Engine Maintenance
Image Credit: Unsplash

Do All Diesel Engines Make Black Smoke?

All diesel cars will produce some amount of smoke. Older diesel cars will make more than newer cars. On older cars, it is normal to see a small amount of black smoke from the exhaust under heavy load or heavy acceleration.

Newer vehicles with DPF’s should produce so little that it is not visible to the naked eye, even during a DPF regeneration.

During this process, the particles trapped in the filter are burned away. This empties the filter and allows it to start collecting particles again. This process burns at very high temperatures, so there should still be no visible smoke while this is happening.

Some high-performance diesel cars may have had their ECU remapped by a 3rd party. This can change the amount of fuel and air being injected into the engine. This is usually done to increase performance and can cause black smoke. But in this case, it does not indicate a problem.

Is black smoke bad?

In older cars, a small amount of black smoke is perfectly normal and healthy as they don’t have particulate filters to catch the carbon. However, excessive Black smoke is bad and indicates there is a problem with the car.

Newer cars should not produce any visible smoke so anything here is a sign that something is wrong with the car and should not go without investigation.  

What Causes White Smoke?

White exhaust smoke typically shows that something is seriously wrong with a diesel engine. However, a cold engine on startup can produce a small amount of white smoke whilst it gets up to temperature. This is because things like condensation in the exhaust evaporate as the engine heats up. If white smoke is related to a fuel fault then the smoke will smell like hot tar. If the white smoke is related to a fault with the cooling system then it will have a sweet smell. We are going to cover the main causes of white smoke on a diesel engine.

Diesel smoke from car exhaust
Photo Credit: Pixabay

Improper combustion

Improper combustion of the fuel will cause white smoke from the exhaust. This should not be confused with fuel-rich combustion that causes black smoke. Improper combustion is when the fuel does not burn correctly and this can be caused by low compression due to damaged pistons, piston rings or valves.

Water in your diesel fuel

Water in your diesel can cause improper combustion and thus white smoke to be emitted from the exhaust. Contaminated diesel will also be harmful to other components such as the fuel pump which relies on diesel fuel for lubrication. Water can cause these components to fail prematurely. Draining the tank, flushing it out and refilling it with fresh uncontaminated fuel will solve this issue. You may also need to replace your fuel filter. 

Faulty injectors

If you have a faulty injector that is injecting fuel at the wrong time then this will cause white diesel smoke. This is because if the fuel is being injected at the wrong time so it doesn’t get properly burned. Therefore causing the engine to produce white smoke. A faulty injector can also lead to severe engine damage. If you see white smoke from the exhaust of your diesel engine then you should get it checked out immediately. 

Diesel Engine
Photo Credit: Pixabay

Coolant leaking into the combustion chamber 

If you have coolant being burned in the combustion chamber then this causes white smoke from the exhaust. However, this smoke will have a sweet smell. Different to the smell of hot tar from a fuel related issue. Coolant in the combustion chamber is a serious issue and can be caused by a faulty head gasket or a crack in the cylinder head or engine block. Both these issues will also cause the cooling system to become over pressurised. These faults can be quickly identified by a garage but the repair costs are usually quite high. A cracked engine block could also result in the engine being scrapped.

What Causes Blue Exhaust Smoke?

Blue smoke is caused by oil being burned and will have a distinct pungent oily smell. Blue smoke also normally indicates a serious problem with the engine. However, there are some cases where the fixes are cheap and easy. Here are the main reasons why you might be seeing blue smoke from your diesel engine exhaust.

Diesel Exhaust
Photo Credit: Unsplash

Worn engine components

When components like piston rings, valve stems and cylinder bores wear out. Oil will pass by the previously well-sealed components and enter the combustion chamber. Here it gets burned off and produces blue smoke. You may also notice the oil level dropping and a reduction in engine performance. These worn-out components mean the engine will not be operating as efficiently as it used to. Replacing these components is usually costly and time consuming. 

Overfilling the engine with oil

General engine maintenance such as topping up with oil is always good practice, however too much can cause issues. When the engine oil is overfilled, oil can weep past the piston rings and into the combustion chamber. Here it gets burned and produces blue smoke. Checking the oil level on the dipstick will quickly let you know if this is the cause of the blue smoke. If the engine is overfilled them some oil will need to be removed so that the level is within the specified limits for your engine.

Engine Oil
Photo Credit: Unsplash

Faulty turbocharger

Oil from your engine is circulated through your turbocharger to lubricate its components. If there is a fault with your turbocharger then oil can enter the intake air stream or the exhaust. This could be due to a faulty shaft seal on the turbocharger. If oil gets into the intake stream it will go through the engine and get burned. When oil gets into the exhaust the high temperatures of the exhaust will cause the oil to burn and produce blue smoke. Here a turbocharger rebuild or replacement is required to fix this issue.

 

Conclusion

There are many reasons why your diesel car is producing smoke. Some are an easy fix and others are more serious. We have covered the different colours of smoke, their causes, fixes, and the severity of each of these situations. Whether it be a slight wisp of black smoke from your old diesel car, to plumes of white or blue smoke. Hopefully this article has helped you on the way to finding and fixing the problem. 

We hope you gained the knowledge and information you needed from this article. Please share this article with anyone else who could benefit from it and leave us a comment down below. 

Tesla Model 3 Charging Problems: Solutions

Justin Bainbridge
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0
Tesla Model 3 Charging Problems: Solutions

The Tesla Model 3 has become the best-selling EV in Europe by a huge margin. Does this mean that the Tesla Model 3 doesn’t have any charging problems? Well, no car is perfect. Although a best-seller, the mass-produced Model 3 does have its charging problems. These issues can present themselves infrequently, but frustratingly leaving the car undriveable. Charging problems are something that Tesla has had to address with this car, fortunately, we have the solutions. 

Tesla Model 3 Charging
Photo Credit: Unsplash

Why won’t my Tesla Model 3 Charge?

These are the main reasons why your Tesla Model 3 may not be charging.

  • Charger needs resetting
  • Faulty supercharger
  • Software glitches
  • Faulty charging port
  • Faulty charging pins
  • Poor charging circuit

What does a blinking red light on the charger mean?

If you are trying to charge your Tesla Model 3 with a flashing red light on your charger. What could this mean?

There may be a ground fault circuit interruption due to an unsafe electrical path. This could have just been a temporary glitch in your electrical system at home. Or, it could be due to a poor installation of the charger.

In this situation, a qualified electrician should be called to check the installed circuit on the charger for any problems. Let them know that the light means a grounding issue as this will help them to diagnose the problem better. Alternatively resetting the charger sometimes fixes this Tesla Model 3 charging problem.

Tesla Chargers
Photo Credit: Unsplash

How do I reset my Tesla Model 3 charger?

To reset your Tesla Model 3 charger you first need to unplug the charger from the vehicle. Then press the reset button on the charger and plug it back into the Model 3 to see if this has worked. If not then unplug the charger from the Model 3 and the power outlet. Leave it for a few minutes. Then plug it back in, press the reset button again, and try again. If the charger still does not work the issue is likely elsewhere or the charger is defective.

Am I charging at a faulty Tesla supercharger?

Whilst charging your car at a supercharger you might plug it in, only to come back and see it hasn’t been charging or it stopped prematurely. You may also not be able to start charging your Tesla Model 3 at the supercharger. If this is the case the first thing to do is to try a different supercharger. It’s fairly common for superchargers to go down at the services and swapping to a different one normally solves the issue.

If you have tried a few superchargers and it is still not charging, then there is likely an issue somewhere else. If the car stops charging whilst plugged into the supercharger you should also receive a notification through the Tesla app.

Tesla Supercharger
Photo Credit: Unsplash

Does my Tesla Model 3 have a charging software problem?

Sometimes software glitches can cause Tesla Model 3 charging problems. These software glitches can normally be fixed by rebooting the car. If your Tesla Model 3 has got a charging problem after a new update then the issue could be with the updated software. You will need to contact Tesla to check if this is the case. Rebooting the car is good practice here.

How do I reboot my Tesla Model 3?

If you are having charging problems with your Tesla Model 3, rebooting the car can sometimes solve them.

The first thing to try is a soft reboot, to perform a soft reboot on your Tesla Model 3 you should do the following.

Soft Reboot

  • Press and hold the scroll wheels until the screens turn off in the car. 
  • After 10-30 seconds the touchscreen and instrument cluster should restart and the reboot is complete.

Tesla Model 3 interior
Photo Credit: Unsplash

Vehicle soft reset

If the reboot didn’t work then you can perform a full vehicle soft reset. To do that you need to do one of the following.

1st method

  • Put the Tesla Model 3 in park and make sure all the doors are closed.
  • Then go to the controls menu – Safety and security – Power off.
  • Then don’t touch anything in the car (Steering wheel, brakes, touchscreen, etc.) for at least 2 minutes. However, it’s advisable to wait for up to 5 minutes. 
  • After 5 minutes press the brake or open the door to power the Model 3 on.

2nd method

  • Put the Tesla Model 3 in park and make sure all the doors are closed.
  • Then press and hold the brake pedal down.
  • After that press and hold both scroll wheels buttons, making sure to also keep the brake pressed down.
  • Keep the buttons and the brake pedal pressed down until the screen comes back on.
  • Reboot complete.

Tesla parked with a man getting out
Photo Credit: Unsplash

Let the Tesla Model 3 sleep

Another thing you can do is to allow the car to “sleep” for a period of 6-8 hours or overnight. Sleeping just means leaving the car parked up and inactive. This downtime can also give the vehicle time to refresh its systems and remedy any software glitches it might have encountered.

Does my Tesla Model 3 have a faulty charging port?

A faulty charging port is something that has been commonly seen on the Tesla Model 3. The charging problem arises when the charging port becomes faulty and loses connection with the cars on-board computers. If this happens the car will not respond to being plugged in and it will not charge. In some cases, when you press the charging port cover to open it, will not open. This can be an early sign that your Tesla Model 3 has a faulty charging port.

You can manually open the cover and try plugging the charger in but if the green light doesn’t come on then you have a problem.

To fix this charging problem a replacement charging port needs to be fitted. This needs to be done at a Tesla service centre. If your car is covered under warranty then this will all be free of charge. However, if your car is out of warranty then you can expect to pay around $600 for this repair.

Tesla charging
Photo Credit: Unsplash

Are my Tesla Model 3 Charging pins faulty?

The charging pins on your Tesla Model 3 have small black plastic caps on the ends of them. These can snap off and cause a charging fault when you try and connect or disconnect the charger at an angle or by wiggling it excessively. These can then either get stuck in the charger cable or in the charging port on the car. Some users have fixed this by gluing the caps back onto the pins.

Tesla is aware of this fault and has rolled out a service bulletin. They are replacing any pins susceptible to this fault when cars visit for normal servicing. Most vehicles have now been fitted with the updated pins so this is an issue you are unlikely to come across unless you have an older Tesla Model 3.

Why isn’t my Tesla Model 3 charging at home?

If you are having problems charging your Tesla Model 3 at home but not at the superchargers, you may have a faulty charger or faulty wiring in your house.

EV charger
Photo Credit: Unsplash

Is my Tesla Model 3 Charger faulty?

If you can charge your Tesla Model 3 at the services but not at home, your charger might be faulty. First, check that the green light is on the charger indicating that you have power to the unit. If this is on and the car still won’t charge then the next step is to reset your charger. If your car still won’t charge after this, then it is likely that you have a faulty charger. You will need to contact Tesla service to get a replacement unit.

Why won’t my Tesla Model 3 charge at home?

Another reason your Tesla Model 3 might not charge home could be due to poor wiring in your house. Poor installation of the charger or poor wiring to the power outlet can cause charging problems. If the charger isn’t happy with the electrical energy it’s being supplied, whether that be voltage, frequency, or amperage it will not start the charging process.

Calling a qualified electrician to check the circuitry in your house and or the installation of the charger is the next step. They will be able to diagnose any faults in the electrical supply to the charger. If no issues are found, we have to assume that the charger itself is faulty. A replacement will need to be sourced from Tesla. 

Will I have any problems charging my Tesla Model 3?

Tesla Model 3 Headlight
Photo Credit: Unsplash

The Tesla Model 3 does have its charging problems. The majority of these can be solved quickly and easily without having to take the car to a service centre. Reboots are very handy and normally solve any light software issues related to charging. Previous faults are already known to Tesla and they are fixing these issues with recalls. 

The Tesla Model 3 is the best-selling EV in Europe for good reason. Although the car does have some charging problems they are not all that common. You should be comfortable owning your Tesla Model 3 in the knowledge that charging problems are infrequent and easily managed.

We hope you’ve gained something valuable from the article and we have set you on the way to fixing your Model 3 Charging Issues. Please leave us a comment and let us know!

We also have a handy article on charging problems for the Model S.

8 Common Suzuki Swift Engine Problems

Justin Bainbridge
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0
8 Common Suzuki Swift Engine Problems

8 Common Suzuki Swift Engine Problems

The Suzuki Swift is a popular little hatchback, and for good reason. It offers practicality, good looks, and is reasonably priced. All cars have their engine problems though and the Swift is no different. 

We have spoken to mechanics and owners, and are now going to take a look at the most common engine problems seen on the little Suzuki. These problems range in severity, some are easily fixed. Some can cause catastrophic engine failure. So let’s get into the most common engine problems with the Suzuki Swift.

White Suzuki Swift
Image by Santa3 from Pixabay

8 Common Suzuki Swift Engine Problems

  1. Clutch slipping
  2. Excessive oil consumption
  3. Loss of power
  4. Oil leak
  5. Diesel injector failure
  6. Timing chain failure – 1.3 Diesel
  7. Camshaft snapped – 1.3 Diesel
  8. EGR valve fault – 1.3 Diesel

So these are the 8 most common Suzuki Swift engine problems, let’s take a look at all of them in more detail.

Why is my Suzuki Swift clutch slipping or juddering?

The Suzuki Swift’s most common fault is a slipping or juddering clutch. The clutch is the component that connects the engine to the car’s transmission. It will slip when it doesn’t engage properly with the engine’s flywheel. 

Image Credit: Pixabay

There are a few symptoms of this fault. Things like when driving and trying to accelerate, the engine revs will increase but the car does not accelerate, this fault is normally more noticeable in the higher gears.

The car will be very lazy when pulling from a standstill, with the revs getting high but forward motion being slow. This is also normally accompanied by the smell of burning, similar to burning carpet.

This fault is caused by poor contact and pressure between the clutch and the flywheel. The clutch plate is like a big brake pad. It has friction material that will eventually wear out. When this happens the clutch will start to slip as there isn’t enough material to generate sufficient friction to drive the car forward properly. 

Broken or weakened clutch springs can also cause this issue, along with friction material contamination. Contamination could be caused by something like an oil leak that is dripping onto the clutch and causing it to slip.

Suzuki car interior
Photo by Sergi Kabrera on Unsplash

To fix this issue, the clutch will need to be replaced and the flywheel either replaced or resurfaced. This is to ensure the new clutch makes good, proper contact with the flywheel and the fault doesn’t persist.

Why is my Suzuki Swift using a lot of engine oil?

The most common cause of oil consumption is just engine wear.  All engines consume a small amount of oil. The maximum allowable limit set by the manufacturer of 1 litre per 1000km (600 miles). If the engine is consuming less than this amount then this is fine and the engine is operating correctly. However, if the engine is using more than this, then there is a problem.

After many miles of service, the engine will have experienced a degree of wear. If this is excessive, then consuming oil is one of the first signs of this. This is caused by wear to the engine’s piston rings.

The piston rings are the component are fitted to the piston and they contact the cylinder wall to create compression when the piston moves up. They also prevent oil from the bottom of the engine from passing by the piston and being burnt in the combustion chamber.

Engine oil filter
Image by dearcompany from Pixabay

As this part is making metal to metal contact it will eventually wear out. When this happens, the seal between the piston and the cylinder becomes weaker. This results in oil being able to enter the combustion chamber and get burnt off during normal operation. Bluish white smoke may also be visible from the exhaust.

Unfortunately, this cannot be rectified very easily. It requires the engine to be stripped down, the piston rings replaced. The cylinder bores will also need to be refinished in order to create a good seal again. Normally, because this occurs on high mileage vehicles the cost of repair can often exceed the value of the car.

Why has my Suzuki Swift lost engine power?

Modern engines are fitted with a lot of sensors that monitor everything from crankshaft and camshaft position. To the amount of air coming into the intake and the temperature of that air. If any of these sensors fail or provide readings that don’t look normal to the car’s ECU. Then the car will go into something called limp mode. This is when the car will reduce the engine’s performance to limit the risk of damage because of one of these sensor issues.

The engine light will also come on on the dashboard. This lets you know there is a fault and the car needs to be inspected. Luckily these sensors are normally easy to replace and diagnose. The car will get plugged into a diagnostic computer that will read the fault codes stored in the ECU. This will tell the mechanic which sensor is faulty and it can then be replaced and the car will be back to normal operating performance.

Engine valvetrain
Image by Krzysiek from Pixabay

Why is there oil leaking from my Suzuki Swift?

The most common oil leak on the Suzuki Swift is from the crankshaft seal. This is a rubber seal that keeps the engine oil from leaking out around the crankshaft. If the seal is worn out, damaged, or was fitted poorly. This will result in an oil leak from this area. Symptoms will be oil on the ground where the car has been stood overnight or in a car park. You may also notice the oil level dropping on the dipstick but this is less likely.

The fix is relatively simple as it just involves replacing the worn seal. Unfortunately, a lot of disassembly is required in order to access this part. So labour costs are generally high even though the part is relatively cheap. 

Does my Suzuki Swift have a faulty injector?

Faulty injectors are engine problems most commonly seen on the diesel Suzuki Swift. The injector’s job is to squirt fuel into the combustion chamber at the right time so that it can be burnt by the engine. If the injector fails, it either fails in the on/off position. Or it fails to deliver enough, or delivers too much fuel into the combustion chamber.

Blue Suzuki Swift
Photo by Asyrafunk RKTW on Unsplash

The outcomes for failing to deliver fuel completely or to deliver enough fuel will be a reduction in power and the engine running lumpy. Delivering too much fuel or constantly injecting fuel can be seen by rough running, excessive black smoke out the exhaust and the oil level on the dipstick increasing as the fuel washes into the sump.

What happens if the injector is not delivering enough fuel?

If the injector isn’t delivering enough fuel then this is much less problematic for the car. The engine light will normally come on as the car notices abnormalities in the engine’s parameters. Sometimes there might be a blockage in the injector which can be cleaned out. But more normally a replacement injector will be needed to repair this fault.

What happens if the injector is delivering too much fuel?

If the injector fails and is delivering too much fuel then this can potentially be much worse. Sometimes this is much harder to notice as the engine might not notice severe enough abnormalities to put the engine warning light on, this is because generally, the engine will still run at a good enough level to satisfy the ECU.

However if undetected for long enough then the fuel could wash past the piston and into the bottom end of the engine. This will cause the engine oil to become diluted with fuel. If this gets too diluted, then the oil will lose it’s lubricative properties. This will result in catastrophic engine failure as bearings and pistons will become extremely damaged in this type of environment. A replacement engine will be required if this is the case. But if noticed early enough a replacement injector and a service will solve this issue.

How do I know if my Suzuki Swift has a timing chain fault?

The timing chain is what keeps the engine’s top and bottom half in sync. The timing chain is linked to sprockets connected to the crankshaft and the camshaft. This allows the engine to turn over and open the valves at the right ties to let air in and exhaust out. This is crucial because the valves come down into the combustion chamber and need to be kept away from the top of the piston when the piston is reaching the top of its stroke.

If the chain stretches or snaps, then these parts of the engine will fall out of sync and the piston can come into contact with the valves causing catastrophic engine failure. Normally a replacement engine will be needed if this is the case. The timing chain is built to last the lifetime of the engine. However, if the engine isn’t being serviced and having regular oil changes. Then this part will wear out prematurely and cause a full engine failure. Signs of a worn timing chain will be a noisy ticking or slapping sound at low revs/tickover.

Is my Suzuki Swift camshaft snapped?

The symptoms of this fault will be a sudden stop of the engine, normally with a loud bang. The camshaft is the part that controls when the intake and exhaust valves open and close in the engine. If this fails, then the valves can come into contact with the piston and cause severe engine damage. But what causes the camshaft to snap?

Engine block and timing chain
Image by Free-Photos from Pixabay

The camshaft snaps when there is a lack of oil to the top of the engine. The camshaft bearings then overheat and the camshaft seizes, but whilst this is happening the crankshaft is still trying to turn. Because these two components are linked via the timing chain, this twisting force on the camshaft is what causes it to snap, normally at the end connected to the timing chain.

The camshaft can seize due to a lack of lubrication, this could be because of a faulty oil pump, or because of poor servicing. Which can cause blockages in oil galleries from the pump to the camshaft bearings. Generally, the engine is a write off in this instance. Prevention is key here, proper servicing and maintenance will help to avoid this problem.

 

Does my Suzuki Swift have a faulty EGR valve?

The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve connects the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold. It regulates the amount of exhaust gas that flows back into the intake manifold which then flows back through the engine. This helps to reduce the engine’s NOX emissions.

If the valve gets clogged up or sticks then there will be problems. The engine light will come on if the engine senses the valve is not operating properly. A clogged valve will struggle to open and close so this fault is very easily diagnosed. The valve gets clogged up with carbon deposits from the exhaust gasses, these are very hard to remove without manually cleaning the valve.

Car Exhaust
Image by Andreas Lischka from Pixabay

Other symptoms include a loss of power and black smoke from the exhaust. The EGR valve can easily be cleaned or replaced so this fault doesn’t come with costly repair or significant risk to the engine’s livelihood.

 

Are Suzuki Swift engines reliable?

All this talk about engine problems might make you wonder if the Suzuki Swift engines are reliable or not. Well, you’ll be happy to hear that although these are the most common engine problems. Engine problems aren’t actually that common on the Swift. The car is praised by mechanics for having brilliant engines fitted that they rarely see issues with.

 

What is the engine life of Swift?

The Engine life of the Suzuki Swift depends on whether the car has a petrol or a diesel engine fitted to it.

  • The petrol-engined cars have an engine life span of 125,000 miles. (8.3 years)
  • The diesel-engined cars have an engine life span of 250,000 miles. (16.6 years)

Taking into account the average person travels 15,000 miles per year this gives the engines a life span of 8.3 years and 16.6 years respectively.

These figures are based on proper maintenance and servicing. These engines can, and often do exceed the expected lifespan if looked after properly.

Photo by Syed Hussaini on Unsplash

Is Suzuki Swift a good car?

From our research and speaking with owners and mechanics the general feedback was very positive. The Swift is a great car and rarely gives the owners much trouble, or causes headaches for mechanics. There is now a Hybrid model out as well for those who want something a bit more economical. We think you should be confident that your Swift will provide you with many safe and reliable miles of service, just remember to get it serviced when required.

We hope you’ve enjoyed reading this article and it’s given you the answers you were looking for. Please be sure to share it with anyone who could also benefit from the information found here. Also, leave us a comment sharing your thoughts and experiences with the Suzuki Swift!

Tesla Model S Charging Problems: Solutions

Justin Bainbridge
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Tesla Model S Charging Problems: Solutions

Since the day it was released the Tesla Model S has been setting the bar of what an electric car can, and should be. Tesla Model S charging problems sounds quite daunting because if you can’t charge your electric car, you cant drive anywhere. The frustration of this fault means that customers are often left in a pickle when they first encounter it. You’re not normally trying to charge the car if the battery is full.

Charging problems are something that Tesla has had to deal with on this car. We are going to take a look at all the charging problems Tesla has had with this car, and how they are fixed.

Black Tesla Model S
Photo by Jp Valery on Unsplash

Why is my Tesla Model S not charging?

Here are the main reasons why your Tesla Model S could be having charging problems.

  • A faulty supercharger or charger at the services.
  • A faulty charging port.
  • Flash memory fault.
  • High power wall connector (HPWC) fault.
  • A Software glitch.

Am I plugged into a faulty Tesla Supercharger?

Sometimes, when trying to charge at the services. You plug your car in, only to come back later to find it hasn’t been charging. The first thing to do in this instance is to try using another charger. It is fairly common for chargers at the services to stop working. Swapping to a different one will solve this issue. 

If it doesn’t then try another charger again. If your car still won’t charge then it looks like there is a problem with the car, not the chargers. You should also receive a notification from the Tesla app if your car stops charging whilst plugged into the charger. 

Tesla Chargers
Photo by J Dean on Unsplash

Does my Tesla Model S have a faulty charging port?

One of the most common Tesla Model S charging problems is with the charging port on the vehicle. The port can become faulty and then lose communication with the car’s main computers. When this happens the port will not respond to the charger being plugged in. No green light comes on and no charge is passed to the battery.

In some cases, the flap that opens to reveal the port will not open either. This can be manually opened but is normally the first sign of a faulty charging port. The car will need to have a replacement port fitted by Tesla. This part is covered by warranty so there will be no cost for the repair if the car is within its warranty period. If not you should expect the repair to cost up to $600.

Does my Tesla Model S have a flash memory fault?

Some older Tesla Model S charging problems can be put down to a fault with a flash memory chip that goes blank. This also causes one of the screens to also go blank in the car. A big issue considering most aspects of the vehicle are controlled through touchscreens.

The problem happens because this flash chip is re-written every time the vehicle is started. Because this chip has a set maximum rewrite capacity. Once this is reached the chip will just go blank. This causes the car to not charge among other faults. The car will have to be repaired by Tesla. There have been requests for Tesla to do a vehicle recall to rectify this fault, but they haven’t done this due to the smaller number of recorded instances.

Tesla interior
Photo by Roberto Nickson on Unsplash

Is my Tesla wall charger faulty?

Having problems with the wall charger is not uncommon. It could be that there is no power to the unit, diagnosed by no lights on the charger. Or that there is power to the unit but no ability to charge or the charging keeps getting interrupted. Here the lights will be on the unit but there will still be issues with charging the vehicle.

If there are no lights on the unit you should check that the circuit breaker for the charger hasn’t tripped. This can trip if the charger is set to a charging amp setting that is too high. It could be overloading the breaker and causing it to trip. Lower the charging rate in order to solve this problem. There may also be a wiring fault somewhere between the charger and the breaker in the house. You would need to get an electrician to diagnose this if this is the case. Otherwise, the actual unit may be faulty and need to be replaced. 

If the light is on the unit but it won’t charge the car, there could be a fault with the grounding wiring. If this isn’t a solid connection then it will cause a lot of charging issues. Getting an electrician to check this should help you diagnose if this is the cause of the charging issues. Apart from this, the unit can be reset, details of how to do this are later in this article. 

Does my Tesla Model S have a charging software problem?

Whilst the Model S is charging there can sometimes be small glitches in the software that cause the car to stop charging. An error message will come up in the Tesla app notifying you that the car has stopped charging. This error will need to be cleared from the app. The car will then need to be disconnected and then reconnected to the charger in order to restart charging. These software errors aren’t severe but sometimes, if the previous steps don’t fix it then the car will have to be rebooted to restart the computers.

Black Tesla Model S
https://unsplash.com/photos/Ddjl0Cicdr4

How do I reboot my Tesla Model S?

Sometimes the car just needs to be rebooted to clear any glitches and restart the systems. Think of it like your computer that sometimes needs a restart to clear a software glitch. 

To reset the car you need to follow this procedure.

1- Put the vehicle in park with all the doors closed.

2- Go to Controls – Safety and Security – Power Off

3-  Don’t touch anything for 5 minutes, then press the brake or open the door to restart the vehicle.

If you want to do another type of reboot here is the full range of reset procedures.

Why does my Tesla charging get interrupted?

Tesla Model S charging may be interrupted for a number of reasons. The most common are the following.

  • Power surges or dropouts to your house.
  • Wall charger charging current set incorrectly, usually too high.
  • Loose electrical connections.
  • Grounding faults in the charging circuit.

We don’t recommend trying to fix these issues on your own. All of these faults are something that a qualified electrician should be checking to diagnose the cause of your Tesla Model S charging problems. 

Tesla logo
Photo by Michael Förtsch on Unsplash

What does the blinking red light on my Tesla charger mean?

A flashing red light on your Tesla Model S charger means there is a grounding fault. This may be a poor connection or a badly installed ground, nothing is actually wrong with the charger just with the installation. An auto electrician will be able to quickly and easily rectify this issue for you.

How do you reset a Tesla charger?

To reset the Tesla Model S wall charger you need to locate the circuit breaker that it is connected to. Flip the switch so that power is disconnected from the charger. Then wait for at least 10 seconds and switch the breaker back on. This will reset the wall charger. 

To reset the mobile connector you just need to press the red reset button on the back of the connector.

Has my Tesla Model S been recalled?

On January 13, 2014, Tesla issued a recall for the Model S wall charging adapter, not the actual car itself. Model number NEMA 14-50. This was due to the concerns of potential fires due to resistance heating in the unit. When the adapter encounters too much resistance then it could heat up to the point that it can melt the casing, cord, or socket. If severe enough this could lead to electrical arcing and potentially a fire.

Black Tesla Model S
Photo by Jp Valery on Unsplash

The fix was issued as an over-the-air update so you didn’t need to return or take your charging unit in for repairs. Over 99% of all the affected adapters were updated and subsequent models of the adapter had a new thermal fuse fitted. This increased the safety of the device further. 

Will I have problems charging my Tesla Model S?

Charging issues are not something that generally crosses people’s minds when buying a Tesla Model S. But it is something to bear in mind. The faults we see on the Tesla Model S aren’t severe or dangerous. And the only one with any significant safety risk was rectified through the recall. You should rest easy knowing that the next time you go to plug your Tesla Model S into the charger that it will work just fine. But if it doesn’t, we’ve given you all the information you need to get on the road again as quickly as possible!

We hope you enjoyed reading this article and got the answers you were looking for. Please leave us a comment down below sharing your experiences with the Tesla Model S. And share this article with anyone else who could also benefit from the information here.

 

How To Add Value To Your Car: 6 Cheap Ways

Andy Marchant
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How To Add Value To Your Car: 6 Cheap Ways

Selling your car can be a stressful experience and the most common concern is getting a fair price. Whether you are listing your car privately, part-exchanging at a dealer or selling to an online company, you will no doubt want the best price for it.

Getting your car up to a desirable saleable standard need not be expensive, there is plenty you can do at home that will not only be rewarding but cost-effective too. In this article, we will highlight 6 cheap tried and tested ways to add the most value to your car.

Floor Mats

Floor MatsFloor mats take up a surprisingly large area of your interior, if they are worn and tatty it will really show. Replacing these will also eliminate any unpleasant odours that may have accumulated in the mats over time. If you currently don’t have car mats a new set is a great way of hiding pedal wear on the floor and any other age-related damage.

Opening the door and seeing pristine carpeting certainly gives a great first impression to any potential buyers. Prices start from £12 for a new set of made to measure mats, it’s an inexpensive way to add some wow factor.  Online retailer eBay has some great deals on mats for almost any vehicle.

Give It A Proper Clean

Car Cleaning
Image Credit: Unsplash

By a proper clean we don’t mean a trip to the local car wash, it has got to be done thoroughly. A professional valeter can charge upwards of £100 for a decent full valet so the cheapest way would be to do it yourself.

A good full valet would include:

  • Exterior hand body wash & rinse
  • Deep cleaned wheels & arches
  • Door and boot shuts cleaned
  • Remove any non standard decals or stickers
  • Tyres dressed (a silicone-based liquid that is brushed on to shine and refresh tyres)
  • Remove tar deposits from paintwork
  • Clean around the filler cap
  • Clean engine bay
  • Remove rubbish and excessive dirt from the interior
  • Full interior vacuum
  • Interior plastic surfaces cleaned and dressed
  • Windows cleaned inside and out (use a household glass cleaner for a streak free shine)
  • Remove swirl marks with a compound such as T-Cut
  • Hand wax or buff with quick detailer

Bad smells in your car
Image credit: Unsplash

Update Service History

Perhaps the most effective way to add value to your car is keeping your service history up to date. A well maintained car will always be more attractive to potential buyers. Make sure any old receipts or invoices are together.

Check your service book has all the necessary stamps. If you are missing any, you can contact the dealer or garage where it was serviced and they will be happy to stamp the book for you. If it was a main dealer they will have a lifetime record of the services stored digitally, this can be emailed or printed with a quick phone call to them.

It is good practice to keep all of the service history, receipts and log book together, along with any locking wheel nut keys, spare keys and original manuals.

Photo Credit: Pixabay

Cover Up Scratches

Our favourite part of the process and by far the most rewarding. The issue you are most likely to be knocked down for is damaged bodywork. Severe damage will require professional painting, but light to moderate scratches can be fixed cheaply at home.

For the first step use a mild abrasive such as Meguairs Ultimate compound to eliminate light scratches and swirl marks. This will flatten the lacquer and bring a wonderful shine and lustre to the paintwork.

Deeper scratches can be hidden using a colour-matched paint restorer like T-Cut Color Fast. This works by penetrating scratches and adding a layer of colour to hide any visible primer or undercoat which is particularly noticeable on darker cars. Be sure to find the one that best matches your paintwork as there are many types available.

Restore Yellowing Headlights

Photo Credit: Unsplash

If your car is of a certain age you may notice the headlights appear foggy or yellow. This is caused by UV damage to the polycarbonate plastic shell. This degradation can dramatically reduce light on the road so it is important to keep them clear. Luckily this is a very cheap fix and sorting this issue will add to desirability and value.

There are kits available specifically for this job however they can be expensive and unnecessary. If your headlights are really pitted they may require a machine polish but in most instances, this method should work.

  • First, pop the bonnet and clean your headlights to remove any grit.
  • Apply a strong abrasive paste with a microfibre cloth in a circular motion
  • Add more paste and polish until the lights are clear (this may a few minutes)
  • Seal and buff with carnauba wax
  • Appreciate how much better your car looks

Take Better Photos

Photo Credit: Unsplash

Selling your car privately? You’ll be amazed at how much of a difference some good photos will make. Make sure your car is valeted and you are taking pictures in the daylight in a presentable location.

Put yourself in the shoes of the buyer, what would you want to see? Clear pictures that are in focus from all major angles, sell the dream!

Phone cameras these days have a great resolution and produce quality images, but a mirrorless camera or an SLR would produce the most professional results.

The Pictures You Should Include Are:

  • Head on
  • Rear
  • Each side profile
  • Inside boot
  • Front corner
  • Rear corner
  • Engine bay
  • A wheel close up
  • Front seats, rear seats
  • Dashboard
  • Logbook, service book, invoices and keys (make sure you cover numbers on the V5c)

Conclusion

We hope you found this article helpful in finding cheap ways to add value to your car. Please comment below with your own findings or share on social media.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nissan Qashqai 1.5 dCi Engine Problems: Explained

Barnaby Whicher
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0
Nissan Qashqai 1.5 dCi Engine Problems: Explained

Since its release in 2006, the Nissan Qashqai quickly became a major player in the affordable family SUV market, with over 3.3 Million cars produced between 2006 & 2021. Although in this time the Nissan Qashqai hasn’t had a completely flawless reputation for reliability. In this article, we’ll be exploring the most commonly reported Nissan Qashqai 1.5 dCi engine problems.

The 1.5 dCi or K9K engine as its also known, was fitted to a huge quantity of Nissan Qashqai’s. Therefore this engine has been tested in real-world conditions on mass, by none other than the family market. As we know if there is any weakness at all, the notoriously hard day to day use of the family car market will quickly find it.

Today, we will run through some of the most common questions asked about this engine. Whilst pointing out some of the common problems owners report.

What Problems Does The Nissan Qashqai Have?

Nissan Qashqai 1.5 dCi engine problems
Image Credit: Unsplash

Since its release, the Nissan Qashqai has been known to have a few common problems.

Among these common problems, Nissan Qashqai 1.5 DCI engine problems were sometimes reported. Some of these issues were fairly predictable and related to mileage and use, but others were a little more unique to this engine and could possibly be avoided in some cases.

Common Nissan Qashqai 1.5 dCi Engine Problems

• Sticking EGR Valves

Sticking EGR valves on the 1.5 dCi are a fairly common occurrence and is also common with many modern cars that use an EGR valve.

The EGR valve or exhaust gas recirculation valve, allows a small amount of exhaust gas to recirculate back into the intake manifold where the gas is then processed for a second time. This is to help reduce the amount of NOx emitted in the exhaust.

Naturally, the EGR valve comes into contact with lots of unfiltered exhaust gases. These exhaust gases carry carbon deposits that can get baked onto the inner workings of the EGR valve and eventually stop the valve from operating correctly.

Generally speaking, cars that are regularly used for longer, faster journeys are less affected by this. This is due to a number of factors which include a faster flow of exhaust gases, higher temperature & more consistent fuelling, which leaves less residue.

Symptoms of a sticking EGR valve

Symptoms of a sticking EGR valve can present as a rough idle, including a possible stalling at idle, increased fuel consumption, difficulty starting, sluggish acceleration and of course an engine warning light.

• Injector Failure

The fuel injectors often fitted to some of the 1.5 dCi engines can be a little unreliable. These injectors have also been known to be particularly sensitive to poorer quality fuels & can become clogged with metallic fragments produced by a failing fuel pump.

Therefore it is particularly important to replace the fuel filter regularly on this model & inspect for signs of metallic residue at each interval.

Although fuel injectors are relatively easy to replace, they are a particularly expensive component (around £100 each) and are best replaced as a full set of 4.

Whilst replacing these injectors isn’t in itself a very labour intensive task, these injectors generally need to be coded to the engine control unit (ECU). This is done via specialist software, so makes this repair far less accessible to the DIY car mechanic.

Symptoms of injector failure.

Symptoms of fuel injector failure can include a smell of fuel in the cabin, difficulty starting the engine, a tapping noise, white smokey exhaust & often the engine management light will be illuminated.

• Premature Main & Conrod Bearing wear

One of the most common complaints with this engine is that some owners have experienced premature wear to the crankshaft bearing shells. It is commonly agreed that this tends to be a result of the oil change intervals being too far apart. Therefore some mechanics will recommend shorter intervals of around 10,000 miles between oil changes.

Some mechanics may also recommend preemptive bearing replacement at around 100,000 miles, regardless of previous service records.

Whilst the costs of replacement bearing shells can be surprisingly cheap, (As little as £20). It is however quite a labour-intensive task to replace them. Twinned with this, if the bearings are being replaced at an advanced state of wear, damage to surrounding components can also be sustained. Which can contribute to a fairly high repair bill.

It’s also important to consider, whilst attending to worn bearings the mechanic may also recommend other associated maintenance, like an oil pump replacement.

Symptoms of worn bearings

Symptoms of worn bearings can present as a knocking sound from deep within the engine alongside metallic deposits in the oil. The longer a car is run with significantly worn bottom end bearings the likely hood of damaging surrounding components goes up drastically.

So if you are in any doubt, get the engine inspected by a mechanic as soon as possible.

• Timing Belt Failure

Timing Belt failure has been known to happen fairly regularly. This is also widely agreed to be a result of slightly over-ambitious, manufacturer-recommended service intervals.

Mechanics who are familiar with this engine will generally recommend an early timing belt replacement around 50-60,000 miles. As opposed to the manufacturer recommended intervals which tend to vary between 75-100,000 miles.

Whilst shorter service intervals may sound a little inconvenient, a catastrophic engine failure caused by a timing belt failure is even less convenient.

Symptoms of a failing timing belt

Unfortunately, when a timing belt fails it usually gives very little warning. So, unfortunately, most peoples first indication of a failed timing belt is a sudden clatter, a car that will no longer start and a very large repair bill to match.

However, some are ‘lucky’ and experience warning signs like a misfire, difficulty starting the car or a lumpy idle speed.

Does The Nissan Qashqai 1.5 dCi Have A Turbo?

Turbo
Image Credit: Unsplash

The Nissan Qashqai’s 1.5 dCi engine otherwise known as the K9K engine, is a 4 cylinder turbocharged diesel engine with direct Common-rail injection.

These engines have a relatively small turbo often provided by both Garrett or BorgWarner.

Whilst diesel cars are already roughly 33% more fuel-efficient than petrol cars. The addition of a turbo further increases the fuel efficiency of a diesel car, whilst also increasing power figures. Due to this, modern diesel cars are almost always fitted with a turbo.

Who Makes The 1.5 dCi Engine?

Renault Dealership
Image Credit: Unsplash

The 1.5 DCI engine was initially made by the Nissan-Renault alliance and first saw its first debut in the Renault Clio in 2001. Since this time the engine has evolved and many manufacturers have adopted the engine in various forms.

Manufacturers that use this engine are Nissan, Suzuki, Dacia, Infiniti and even Mercedes. In recent years engine sharing amongst car makers has become a surprisingly common practice, as developing a new engine can be extremely expensive and timely.

Is 1.5 dCi a good engine?

Nissan Qashqai 1.5 dCi engine problems
Image Credit: Unsplash

The 1.5 dCi has been around for 20 years now, and that fact alone can be read in different ways.

Positively, in this time we have been able to learn the common faults the engine has. This means that mechanics are now widely aware of its requirements and common issues, and are therefore better equipped to diagnose and repair it than they could be with newer engines.

During its long reign, engineers have also been able to learn from issues with the early engines and evolve its design to provide solutions.

The negative argument is that a lot has changed in the past 20 years, and engine design is no different. Some might say the 1.5dCi or K9K engine is a little bit rudementary and is clinging on to some outdated technology & materials that have no place in a modern car.

Our verdict is that although Nissan Qashqai 1.5 dCi engine problems do occur, these problems are, for the most part, easily avoided with a preventative maintenance schedule. When this engine is maintained correctly it can return mileages of well over 150,000 between rebuilds. This, twinned with its excellent fuel consumption figures (50.4 – 74.3 MPG) make this engine a very practical and cost-effective engine choice for many motorists.

Does Nissan Qashqai 1.5 dCi have a DPF?

Exhaust Fumes
Image Credit: Unsplash

The DPF or Diesel Particulate filter as its also known wasn’t fitted to the Nissan Qashqai 1.5 dCi prior to 2010.

This is seen as a mixed blessing for some owners, as the diesel particulate filter can be a rather problematic component. It’s quite common for a diesel particulate filter to become blocked and ineffective. However, a DPF when working correctly can dramatically reduce particulate emissions by up to 85-99%!

However, all diesel Nissan Qashqai’s made after 2010 in Europe were then fitted with a DPF. This was a necessary step to ensure Diesel Nissan Qashqai’s adhered to the Euro 5 exhaust emissions legislation.

What Does dCi Stand For?

Audi A3 engine problems
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The dCi stands for direct Common-rail injection. This essentially means that fuel is delivered to the engine via a very high-pressure fuel rail. This fuel rail then connects to solenoid valve injectors rather than low-pressure injector nozzles.

This high-pressure design allows the fuel to be vaporized more effectively. This means the fuel can cover a larger surface area of the combustion chamber. As a result of this, the fuel is burnt far more effectively than in a low-pressure injection system. Which allows for vastly improved fuel consumption, higher power figures and reduced emissions.

Despite its hi-tech nature, this method of fuel delivery was actually pioneered in 1916. Initially intended for use in submarines, and was only introduced for use in road cars in the mid-1990s.

Nissan Juke Problems: Common Issues With The SUV

Barnaby Whicher
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Nissan Juke Problems: Common Issues With The SUV

The Nissan Juke was launched in 2010 and immediately became a favourite among growing families and alike due to its versatile nature, practicality, and unique looks. Although Nissan was once a byword for reliability, Nissan Juke Problems are sadly not unheard of.

Whilst some models of the Nissan Juke were nearly problem-free, other models have encountered a few, quite serious problems. Thankfully it wasn’t all Jukes that were affected. With the use of this handy guide, you’ll soon be able to distinguish which Juke is best in terms of reliability.

In the below article we will guide you through some of the common issues with the Nissan Juke, including which models are affected most. We will also answer a few common questions prospective buyers often have.

Do Nissan Jukes have any problems?

Nissan Juke
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Nissan Juke’s, like many other cars before them, have been known to have the occasional problem. Whilst a car from any maker without any known faults or weak points, is almost unheard of. Some issues with the Nissan Juke are a little more unpredictable and can occur prematurely in the car’s lifetime. Whilst other problems with the Juke are more predictable and often mileage or age-related.

Common problems with the Nissan Juke

  • CVT Transmission Issues

When discussing Nissan Juke Transmission problems often, we are often referring to the CVT gearbox (REOF11). This is commonly found in the 1.6 naturally aspirated petrol cars. The CVT gearbox is seemingly a little unpredictable, with some issues being reported at as little as 3k miles, and others remaining fairly problem-free until much higher mileages.

This is probably the most notable & well-reported Nissan Juke problem. So, naturally, we have a whole section discussing these gearboxes, possible symptoms & repair/replacement costs below.

  • Turbo faults 

Turbo models of the Nissan Juke have also been known to have problems occasionally.

A blocked oil feed, allowing the turbo to run without proper lubrication is a common culprit for these Turbo woes. Early symptoms of this could present as something as simple as the car feeling a little slower than usual, due to extra resistance within the Turbo.

If oil flow is reduced significantly over extended periods it will likely destroy the Turbo. This can lead to a very costly repair, or in some cases, replacement.

This however is generally agreed to be prevented by regular oil changes. Nissan service bulletins do also exist for this issue. So, if your engine is regularly maintained by a specialist they’ll likely already know about this and will potentially recommend preventative measures.

Nissan1.2 Dig T Engine Problems
Image Credit: Pexels

  • Inner tie rod ends

Something a little less serious-sounding, but equally notable, is that the Nissan Juke seems to wear out its inner tie rod ends at an increased rate when compared to other cars.

Symptoms of a worn tie rod end can range from a strange vague feeling in the steering to vibration & excessive or uneven tyre wear.

Whilst tie rod end replacement is generally fairly inexpensive, it is very important to keep them in check. Tie rod end failure can be very dangerous, potentially resulting in an inability to steer in the worst cases.

Make sure to have these checked by a professional if you are unsure.

  • Loose Timing Chains

A loose timing chain can be common in various Nissan Juke engines but appears to be particularly common in the 1.2 Turbo engines.

Whilst symptoms of a loose timing chain can appear gradually, it is vital to act fast if you notice any of the below symptoms.

Symptoms of a loose timing chain will generally start as an engine rattle on startup, or maybe a lashing sound when idling from cold. Driving for extended periods with a loose timing chain can result in catastrophic engine failure.

It’s very much a case of better safe than sorry with timing chains, if you have any doubt, have it inspected by a professional as soon as possible.

  • 7 Recalls

So far, various models of the Nissan Juke have been issued with a total of 7 recalls. This may sound like a lot, but really this can say good things about the manufacturer being proactive, processing fault reports & rectifying issues where relevant.

It’s also important to consider the fact that some of these recalls only concern specific models and years.

Here is a list of recalls so far (06/10/21). If you’re unsure whether your Nissan Juke is subject to any recalls, or has previously had any recalls carried out, contact Nissan directly to confirm.

Turbocharger issues
Image Credit: Pexels

  • Fuel Pressure Sensor

The fuel pressure sensor on some models of Nissan Juke has actually been subject to three of the above recalls. The reason for this is because it has been known to spring a leak occasionally and due to the obvious risks involved with leaking fuel, manufacturers rarely ignore any related issues.

Likewise, owners and prospective buyers should also take this issue particularly seriously. Thankfully the issue seems to be limited to Nissan Jukes made between 2011 – 2013. However, if you have any doubts, don’t hesitate to check directly with Nissan if the vehicle in question requires the recall or has had the remedial work carried out already.

  • Premature clutch wear (Manual cars)

The lifetime of a clutch on a manual car is a notoriously hard thing to estimate because it depends hugely on factors such as engine pairing, driving style, and driving conditions. Therefore clutch life expectancy can vary significantly regardless of make or model.

However, there are a few reports of Nissan Juke owners experiencing premature clutch wear. Sadly, if you experience this, it is highly unlikely that it will be covered on any sort of warranty as it is very much a wear and tear item.

Symptoms of a worn clutch will generally include: Slipping under acceleration, difficulty making gear changes & a spongey clutch pedal feel.

  • Premature brake pad wear

Premature brake pad wear is in a very similar category to premature clutch wear, as brake pad life spans also vary hugely based on external factors.

Luckily, brake pad replacement is usually considerably cheaper than clutch replacement. Due to this, when premature pad wear is encountered by Juke owners it is unlikely to be reported and instead written off as a mild inconvenience.

Is the Nissan Juke a Reliable car?

Nissan Steering Wheel
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Whilst some models of the Nissan Juke can face notable reliability issues, the Nissan Juke on the most part is by no means a particularly unreliable car when compared to others.

With this said, there are clearly some models of Nissan Juke which are certainly far more reliable than others.

Due to this, it is vital for prospective buyers to choose wisely to avoid models with known faults or account for unscheduled maintenance.

This guide includes some extremely important pointers for anyone trying to determine which models of Nissan Juke to avoid.

Tranmission Components
Image Credit: Unsplash

Does the Nissan Juke Have Transmission Problems?

The CVT transmission (REOF11) found most commonly in 1.6NA cars, can fail prematurely. Often between 20k-30k Miles, but has been known to fail at even lower mileages.

Initial symptoms of this often present themselves similarly to how a slipping clutch would feel, with the addition of some jerking at low speeds and is often accompanied by a whining noise. When ignored, the symptoms will gradually worsen to the point where the car can become undrivable.

This is, without doubt, one of the most serious Nissan Juke problems. Therefore, it is extremely important to either have a very good warranty on a car with this gearbox or avoid the purchase of a car with this gearbox in the first place.

Gearbox replacements and repairs are notoriously very expensive. Sadly with the Juke, this is no different, with gearbox replacements sometimes costing in the region of £7,000.

If your car is within Nissan’s Warranty period you may be lucky, as they have been known to cover or partially cover the costs of replacement. However, if you are outside of their warranty it is very unlikely they’ll assist financially.

How long do Nissan Jukes last?

Nissan Juke
Image Credit: Unsplash

Predicting how long any vehicle will last can be a very difficult thing to do. The lifespan of a vehicle can vary based on so many external factors. However, there are some early signs that some models of the Nissan Juke can live quite long lives indeed.

One of these signs is that there are plenty of Nissan Jukes available on the used market with quite high mileages on the clock, 100-150k mile examples are relatively common. High mileage examples like these can be great indicators of which models & spec choices are standing up to the test of time the best.

The service histories of these higher mileage examples can also be extremely valuable resources for specialist mechanics. Often preventative maintenance measures are born out of studying these high mileage veterans and the issues they have faced.

Why is the Nissan Juke discontinued?

Image Credit: Pixabay

There are a few misleading articles online which have spurred on questions like the above. Whilst the Nissan Juke has been discontinued in some countries, (the USA and Canada most notably). The Nissan Juke is still available in many other countries including the UK.

The reasons for the Juke being discontinued in some countries remain widely unconfirmed. Some sources have hinted that its looks were a little too eccentric for some markets, which lead to poor sales figures, amongst other reasons.

We however have a suspicion that the Nissan Juke’s discontinuation in some countries is also likely to be part of a larger plan to gradually roll out electric vehicles. Which will eventually replace some of Nissan’s range.

The New Nissan Ariya is a great example of an EV alternative on the horizon that could compete directly with the Juke & Qashqai.

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